<![CDATA[Newell Gurus - Discussion about what to consider on buying a used Newell]]> https://newellgurus.com/ Wed, 03 Jun 2026 23:00:57 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[1997 Newell]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8863 Sun, 08 Feb 2026 22:30:59 +0000 Spratt25]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8863 <![CDATA[ISX 650 cummins]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8766 Wed, 26 Nov 2025 01:12:19 +0000 Figs]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8766 <![CDATA[2003 Newell Front Entry Rear Bath 45']]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8698 Wed, 24 Sep 2025 16:48:24 +0000 ccantrell]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8698
Thank you!]]>
Thank you!]]> <![CDATA[Newell/Prevost]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8650 Sun, 24 Aug 2025 21:38:33 +0000 Gillic01]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8650 <![CDATA[2007 Newell with leaking window and water damage]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8469 Tue, 03 Jun 2025 20:09:50 +0000 ejosh2006]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8469 <![CDATA[Inspector near the Dallas Texas area]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8417 Wed, 09 Apr 2025 15:16:04 +0000 GSPRING]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8417
I just thought I would post this to see if anyone has a person they could suggest to inspect a Newell Coach I am looking at. 

Checking local first and if that doesn't work will move to flying one in. 


This forum is such a great resource of information! 

Thanks in advance for any help you cound give!]]>
I just thought I would post this to see if anyone has a person they could suggest to inspect a Newell Coach I am looking at. 

Checking local first and if that doesn't work will move to flying one in. 


This forum is such a great resource of information! 

Thanks in advance for any help you cound give!]]> <![CDATA[Buying a Newell]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8307 Fri, 27 Dec 2024 07:29:25 +0000 ejosh2006]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8307
I have been in the hunt for a Newell Coach for a while and have found several that I am considering.
The coach I am looking at are 2007 - 2010
   What should I look for?
   What should I ask for?
   Besides the typical Battery, Tires and slides what should I look for?
   Is there a list that I need to go through?
   I will also need an independent inspector. Any suggestions for who to call? (Florida and Texas for now)
   How can I check the windows and airbags and what do I need to look out for when opening and closing the slides
   How can I confirm the status of the engine and Gen engine?
   What about the heater, AC and the aquahot system?
   What would be recommended to check all the internal, electrical and mechanical operations.
Soo many questions

Thank you in advance
Josh]]>
I have been in the hunt for a Newell Coach for a while and have found several that I am considering.
The coach I am looking at are 2007 - 2010
   What should I look for?
   What should I ask for?
   Besides the typical Battery, Tires and slides what should I look for?
   Is there a list that I need to go through?
   I will also need an independent inspector. Any suggestions for who to call? (Florida and Texas for now)
   How can I check the windows and airbags and what do I need to look out for when opening and closing the slides
   How can I confirm the status of the engine and Gen engine?
   What about the heater, AC and the aquahot system?
   What would be recommended to check all the internal, electrical and mechanical operations.
Soo many questions

Thank you in advance
Josh]]> <![CDATA[1980s Newell Classic - Interested in Buying]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8091 Tue, 30 Jul 2024 01:40:15 +0000 customfab]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=8091
I am a very handy person, build many motors, suspensions, and enjoy fabicating as an engineer.  We are replacing a 5th wheel toy hauler after a hail claim.  And getting away from our toys (dirt bikes mainly). We have owned many RVs from toy haulers to various class Cs up to a 2002 Country Coach. 

Is there anything special about the mid to late 1980s Classic models?  Basically, why would you want to own one versus buying a 2002-2008 Monaco/Beaver/HR/Safari w 3 slides?  

Any special or rare options that I should try to identify?

We own a custom furniture business and I have always loved the idea of doing a custom interior within a coach build on very, very, very good bones.  However, I am not retired and do not have tons of freetime so I would need to overall the interior over time.]]>
I am a very handy person, build many motors, suspensions, and enjoy fabicating as an engineer.  We are replacing a 5th wheel toy hauler after a hail claim.  And getting away from our toys (dirt bikes mainly). We have owned many RVs from toy haulers to various class Cs up to a 2002 Country Coach. 

Is there anything special about the mid to late 1980s Classic models?  Basically, why would you want to own one versus buying a 2002-2008 Monaco/Beaver/HR/Safari w 3 slides?  

Any special or rare options that I should try to identify?

We own a custom furniture business and I have always loved the idea of doing a custom interior within a coach build on very, very, very good bones.  However, I am not retired and do not have tons of freetime so I would need to overall the interior over time.]]> <![CDATA[Used 2020p]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7947 Fri, 12 Apr 2024 03:01:41 +0000 ChuckNC]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7947
New to the community and am considering a 2014 2020p.  Any insights or information about this model would be helpful whether positive or negative.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

2018 Newmar Essex
2022 F150 toad]]>
New to the community and am considering a 2014 2020p.  Any insights or information about this model would be helpful whether positive or negative.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

2018 Newmar Essex
2022 F150 toad]]> <![CDATA[Buying an older Newell Coach]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7816 Wed, 07 Feb 2024 08:20:26 +0000 Jrahn56]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7816
Thank you,

Jeff
.jpg Revised Photo of 95 Newell.jpg Size: 676.79 KB  Downloads: 256
]]>
Thank you,

Jeff
.jpg Revised Photo of 95 Newell.jpg Size: 676.79 KB  Downloads: 256
]]> <![CDATA[Total Air Bag Replacement Cost]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7623 Mon, 02 Oct 2023 13:33:01 +0000 Richard]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7623
I was lurking on the Wanderlodge forum, reading a similar post. A well known suspension shop in the Pacific Northwest had quoted a Wanderlodge member 10k to replace the airbags. That quote included parts and labor. I think the gentlemen got it done using an independent tech for a total of 6800.

The cost of airbags, like tires, has almost doubled. And for those who have changed their own, the labor is intense, dirty, and challenging. 

I am kind of thinking on 8 airbag coach, the rears would be in the neighborhood of 400 each, and the two fronts about 600 each. Obviously more if sourced from the mothership. So the minimum parts would be just under 4k. Based on my own ineptness in doing the work several times, about 3 or 4 hrs per air bag. Using 3 hrs per bag at shop rate of 150 results in labor of about 4800 in labor, so the 10k quote was not out of the question. 

I am curious what others experience would say about my estimates. 

I am trying to get a 2023 cost for some of the major maintenance items that a new owner may face in taking over a used coach. 

I also would like to hear about any recent radiator replacement costs.

My purpose is to give a potential buyer a tool in helping assess the price of a used coach, and to anticipate what maintenance costs may be incurred if these items are not reasonably fresh:

For example:
Slide seals
Radiator
Brakes
Tires
Airbags
AirCon Options and Costs


Would love to hear your thoughts on other items that should be on this list.]]>
I was lurking on the Wanderlodge forum, reading a similar post. A well known suspension shop in the Pacific Northwest had quoted a Wanderlodge member 10k to replace the airbags. That quote included parts and labor. I think the gentlemen got it done using an independent tech for a total of 6800.

The cost of airbags, like tires, has almost doubled. And for those who have changed their own, the labor is intense, dirty, and challenging. 

I am kind of thinking on 8 airbag coach, the rears would be in the neighborhood of 400 each, and the two fronts about 600 each. Obviously more if sourced from the mothership. So the minimum parts would be just under 4k. Based on my own ineptness in doing the work several times, about 3 or 4 hrs per air bag. Using 3 hrs per bag at shop rate of 150 results in labor of about 4800 in labor, so the 10k quote was not out of the question. 

I am curious what others experience would say about my estimates. 

I am trying to get a 2023 cost for some of the major maintenance items that a new owner may face in taking over a used coach. 

I also would like to hear about any recent radiator replacement costs.

My purpose is to give a potential buyer a tool in helping assess the price of a used coach, and to anticipate what maintenance costs may be incurred if these items are not reasonably fresh:

For example:
Slide seals
Radiator
Brakes
Tires
Airbags
AirCon Options and Costs


Would love to hear your thoughts on other items that should be on this list.]]> <![CDATA[Basement airs]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7555 Tue, 05 Sep 2023 16:10:05 +0000 pinkston_chris]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7555 <![CDATA["Downsizing" Vintage Newell Purchase]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7430 Tue, 20 Jun 2023 04:16:46 +0000 neverbored]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7430
I'm sure a late 1980's Newell with 8-10 air bags, 45000lbs and tag axle will drive much better than our 4 bag single rear axle CC but not as good as our 2005.  I would also welcome a less complex setup, more similar to what we had on the CC.  Since we would have 2 coaches for awhile, I'm prepared to invest in upgrades like victron inverter/charger/solar, lithium batteries, induction cooktop, residential fridge, maybe remove propane : basically a baby of the best of both of these coaches.  I've done these upgrades twice now so know what to expect.  What I don't know of are issues problematic to the older coaches (basement air?) and how it will drive and live long term. I have read the 1987 owners manual posted by Mxfram (thanks) so understand most of the systems. I can give up some space and comforts for 6 months (summer in the mtn west) given my ability to access more places and storage at our casita. I also willing to replace systems that could be problematic.  The aquahot on my 2005 went out during covid and instead of wait months for a rebuilt unit $$$$$, I had newell install a new Oasis for less $$$$. However, I'm not going to be replacing diodes on a controller and probably cannot trace that kind of issue anyway, although I guess you learn your coach 1 problem at a time Smile

I will never forget the day I drove my 2005 home 890 miles, sometimes in 40 mph winds in NM.  I would get out to stretch my legs and think, wow this is really windy.  In my CC, I would be frazzled after 2 hours and need a sundowner way before sundown.  I still want good driving but in a smaller (and cheaper) package.  I hope this 1987 can give me the best of both worlds, but will take all advice. 

Thanks in advance!
Mark]]>
I'm sure a late 1980's Newell with 8-10 air bags, 45000lbs and tag axle will drive much better than our 4 bag single rear axle CC but not as good as our 2005.  I would also welcome a less complex setup, more similar to what we had on the CC.  Since we would have 2 coaches for awhile, I'm prepared to invest in upgrades like victron inverter/charger/solar, lithium batteries, induction cooktop, residential fridge, maybe remove propane : basically a baby of the best of both of these coaches.  I've done these upgrades twice now so know what to expect.  What I don't know of are issues problematic to the older coaches (basement air?) and how it will drive and live long term. I have read the 1987 owners manual posted by Mxfram (thanks) so understand most of the systems. I can give up some space and comforts for 6 months (summer in the mtn west) given my ability to access more places and storage at our casita. I also willing to replace systems that could be problematic.  The aquahot on my 2005 went out during covid and instead of wait months for a rebuilt unit $$$$$, I had newell install a new Oasis for less $$$$. However, I'm not going to be replacing diodes on a controller and probably cannot trace that kind of issue anyway, although I guess you learn your coach 1 problem at a time Smile

I will never forget the day I drove my 2005 home 890 miles, sometimes in 40 mph winds in NM.  I would get out to stretch my legs and think, wow this is really windy.  In my CC, I would be frazzled after 2 hours and need a sundowner way before sundown.  I still want good driving but in a smaller (and cheaper) package.  I hope this 1987 can give me the best of both worlds, but will take all advice. 

Thanks in advance!
Mark]]> <![CDATA[1994 Newell coach]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7421 Fri, 16 Jun 2023 20:51:25 +0000 Greece]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7421
Currently the batteries are dead but the owner states it will run. Batteries are newer Dekas. Yep We plan to jump it when I return. 

Interior is 8/10 with the water related issues above being the noticeable problems. 

Exterior, there is mild corrosion with about a 3/8” hole in the rear body panel / paint peel along with bubbling in the same panel area. 

There are many unknowns until the unit is up and running. It’s sat about 8-10 years. 

Tires are like new, but they are older. 

What kind of value do you folks see in something like I am describing? It’s a gorgeous coach overall.

I have combed through all the original paperwork including maintenance records from the first owner and limited from the current and second owner. No significant issues.]]>
Currently the batteries are dead but the owner states it will run. Batteries are newer Dekas. Yep We plan to jump it when I return. 

Interior is 8/10 with the water related issues above being the noticeable problems. 

Exterior, there is mild corrosion with about a 3/8” hole in the rear body panel / paint peel along with bubbling in the same panel area. 

There are many unknowns until the unit is up and running. It’s sat about 8-10 years. 

Tires are like new, but they are older. 

What kind of value do you folks see in something like I am describing? It’s a gorgeous coach overall.

I have combed through all the original paperwork including maintenance records from the first owner and limited from the current and second owner. No significant issues.]]> <![CDATA[Monocoque vs. frame rail chassis]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7183 Sun, 22 Jan 2023 06:43:20 +0000 MrE]]> https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7183
Recently a user shared pictures on the FaceBook group "Class A Diesel Pusher Motorhomes RV Coaches" showing the aftermath of a blown steer tire.

.jpg frame rail blowout 1.jpg Size: 152.76 KB  Downloads: 301
.jpg frame rail blowout 2.jpg Size: 158.89 KB  Downloads: 320


There was a post by another user asking which was better, a Spartan on Freightliner chassis. I posted the following response which was removed with a warning.

.jpg removed post.jpg Size: 810.57 KB  Downloads: 321


This is a copy of Bob's article preserved by @fulltiming on Luxury Coach Lifestyle. Michael Day's post

The Chassis under 99% of the Class A Motorhomes manufactured today is a basic Frame Rail. One Hundred % of over the road passenger buses are built on monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis. Full monocoque chassis surround the complete vehicle with frame members. Semi-monocoque chassis use frame members on the lower half of the vehicle, and that provides a very strong base for the rest of the coach. I wonder why that is? A monocoque construction technique is like that of a girder type bridge with support elements diagonally placed between vertical and horizontal elements. Like bus chassis a motorhome semi-monocoque chassis use less weight and gain more strength. Like Greyhound type buses and all new automobiles, this technique provides more rigidity while providing huge inside storage and living space. Frame rails are used in most trucks from pickup to 18-wheelers and the cab is always separate from the payload body. That is because, no matter how big and strong the frame rail is, there is significant torque turning, or twisting, from the front to the rear of the vehicle. In order to limit the damage from this twisting process, truck chassis manufacturers heat treat or temper the rails after key holes are drilled to accommodate components to be attached. Drilling new holes or welding any new components to this hardened frame rail, voids the warranty because it is therefore weakened. Special fasteners, called huck bolts, are normally used to attach truck components to the frame rail because normal bolts no matter how tight they are installed, will eventually loosen.


Motorhome manufacturers use the front and rear caps, the side walls, roof and floor to stiffen the box against this always present torque or twisting. They use special glues and fasteners to attach large sheets of plywood and fiberglass to a simple steel or aluminum frame for all six sides of this box to make it stay together. If perfectly done, the box sides will stiffen the whole vehicle. If not perfectly done, fiberglass will be delaminated, rear overhangs will droop, front and rear caps will crack, many unfixable rattles will develop, and the structural integrity in case of an accident will be weakened. I have seen roll over accidents where all six sides of the frame rail chassis came apart. I have seen roll over accidents of monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis that have simply been righted and driven away. I have not seen any roll over accidents with frame rail chassis where all six sides stayed together. I have not seen a single roll over accident with a monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis where the six sides did not stay together.

If you ride in a 20 year old passenger bus or semi-monocoque motorhome you will find that it is still tight and almost rattle free. It is rare if you find a 20 year old frame rail chassis that that tight. There is really no comparison between the chassis types concerning passenger safety. The monocoque or semi-monocoque wins every time.

So why don't more motorhome manufacturers use a semi-monocoque chassis? The reason is primarily cost. Spartan, Freightliner, Ford, and Union Bay (used to be Chevrolet) supply frame rail chassis to volume motorhome manufacturers. Some makers like Winnebago, cut a frame rail in two, and build a center section that is semi-monocoque design to strengthen the vehicle and gain large storage compartments. All other makes of monocoque or semi-monocoque coaches, manufacturer custom chassis to meet their own specific requirements. Newell, Vogue, Monaco, Foretravel, and Country Coach are the major coaches makers that use custom designed semi-monocoque chassis. These companies have a chassis division that supplies them with proprietary products.]]>
Recently a user shared pictures on the FaceBook group "Class A Diesel Pusher Motorhomes RV Coaches" showing the aftermath of a blown steer tire.

.jpg frame rail blowout 1.jpg Size: 152.76 KB  Downloads: 301
.jpg frame rail blowout 2.jpg Size: 158.89 KB  Downloads: 320


There was a post by another user asking which was better, a Spartan on Freightliner chassis. I posted the following response which was removed with a warning.

.jpg removed post.jpg Size: 810.57 KB  Downloads: 321


This is a copy of Bob's article preserved by @fulltiming on Luxury Coach Lifestyle. Michael Day's post

The Chassis under 99% of the Class A Motorhomes manufactured today is a basic Frame Rail. One Hundred % of over the road passenger buses are built on monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis. Full monocoque chassis surround the complete vehicle with frame members. Semi-monocoque chassis use frame members on the lower half of the vehicle, and that provides a very strong base for the rest of the coach. I wonder why that is? A monocoque construction technique is like that of a girder type bridge with support elements diagonally placed between vertical and horizontal elements. Like bus chassis a motorhome semi-monocoque chassis use less weight and gain more strength. Like Greyhound type buses and all new automobiles, this technique provides more rigidity while providing huge inside storage and living space. Frame rails are used in most trucks from pickup to 18-wheelers and the cab is always separate from the payload body. That is because, no matter how big and strong the frame rail is, there is significant torque turning, or twisting, from the front to the rear of the vehicle. In order to limit the damage from this twisting process, truck chassis manufacturers heat treat or temper the rails after key holes are drilled to accommodate components to be attached. Drilling new holes or welding any new components to this hardened frame rail, voids the warranty because it is therefore weakened. Special fasteners, called huck bolts, are normally used to attach truck components to the frame rail because normal bolts no matter how tight they are installed, will eventually loosen.


Motorhome manufacturers use the front and rear caps, the side walls, roof and floor to stiffen the box against this always present torque or twisting. They use special glues and fasteners to attach large sheets of plywood and fiberglass to a simple steel or aluminum frame for all six sides of this box to make it stay together. If perfectly done, the box sides will stiffen the whole vehicle. If not perfectly done, fiberglass will be delaminated, rear overhangs will droop, front and rear caps will crack, many unfixable rattles will develop, and the structural integrity in case of an accident will be weakened. I have seen roll over accidents where all six sides of the frame rail chassis came apart. I have seen roll over accidents of monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis that have simply been righted and driven away. I have not seen any roll over accidents with frame rail chassis where all six sides stayed together. I have not seen a single roll over accident with a monocoque or semi-monocoque chassis where the six sides did not stay together.

If you ride in a 20 year old passenger bus or semi-monocoque motorhome you will find that it is still tight and almost rattle free. It is rare if you find a 20 year old frame rail chassis that that tight. There is really no comparison between the chassis types concerning passenger safety. The monocoque or semi-monocoque wins every time.

So why don't more motorhome manufacturers use a semi-monocoque chassis? The reason is primarily cost. Spartan, Freightliner, Ford, and Union Bay (used to be Chevrolet) supply frame rail chassis to volume motorhome manufacturers. Some makers like Winnebago, cut a frame rail in two, and build a center section that is semi-monocoque design to strengthen the vehicle and gain large storage compartments. All other makes of monocoque or semi-monocoque coaches, manufacturer custom chassis to meet their own specific requirements. Newell, Vogue, Monaco, Foretravel, and Country Coach are the major coaches makers that use custom designed semi-monocoque chassis. These companies have a chassis division that supplies them with proprietary products.]]>