[RussWhite]

I would be concerned given what you have told us. On the surface it sounds as if you had to make a large adjustment. I would want to understand why before I could just move on and forget about my alternator.
I'll ramble on a bit since you asked. Your regulator is not integrated, but it is functionally the same. It gets a battery voltage signal from somewhere and then uses another battery voltage circuit to supply field current. The "sense" terminal normally draws very little current so the voltage drop on that circuit is low so the regulator is able to "sense" the actual voltage at the battery. That is the voltage the alternator needs to get exactly correct. My alternator with its integrated regulator has a "sense" wire, a D+ which supplies the field current, and then the huge output wire that actually charges the battery as well as makes up for usage while you travel.
So the question becomes, why was your voltage too low? If it were me I would at least check the actual voltage across my battery at the poles against what the VMSpc is showing. I suspect they will be very close, but I would want to be sure from the start I am using a voltage signal for the adjustment that is right on. That's why I keep a 4 1/2 digit fluke that has been tested on a calibration source regularly.
Now you have to ask yourself, is this a new situation, or did you inherit it with the coach? If it's been there a long time maybe it is something just as simple as the regulator was never adjusted properly as the PO just wasn't watching that closely. But, if it has changed in the time you have had it, then an answer for why is needed.
The voltage at the batteries ( and we will assume for now shown on the VMSpc ) may not be what your would measure at the output of the alternator. That would be one of the first things I would check. Any significant voltage difference could be a reason for your having to adjust the regulator. The difference would likely be caused by unusually high resistance in either or both of the circuits between the alternator and the starting batteries - ie. ground connections, terminal corrosion, terminal tightness, physical damage to any wires, etc.
The other main area I would suspect is that for some reason the same field current that once produced the correct charging voltage is now requiring more current to produce the same voltage. The normal culprit there is a failed diode, or even more than one. The rms value of the voltage will decrease with any diode failure. This will also produce a higher ripple voltage that you may be able to measure using the AC setting on a DVM. A scope or scope meter would allow you to look at the actual pattern of the waveform. Sorry I don't know exactly what AC voltage would be alarming. I think I will take some reading on my "new" alternator and just store them for future reference should something like this arise in the future. I have heard folks say that a failed diode will increase the RF noise generated by the alternator and will sometimes causing buzzing in the radio or CB. Hope I have give you some things to think about and check. Russ