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For the life of me, I can't find the 15.5" X 7" shoes for the front brakes. I may have to upgrade to the 16 1/2" drums and shoes and was wondering if anybody has done the switch? I'm primarily interested in what it cost, sourcing of parts and the degree of difficulty. I found a guy in Florida who will fabricate the linings and bond and rivet them to the shoes. The cost is $185 p/shoe X 4 plus $180 shipping each way. It is almost a thousand dollars to get the remanufactured shoes. I was thinking the upgrade may be a little more, but may be worth it. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

i am considering a 2009 Newell #1280.  if anyone has any info and or history on it i would  appreciate feedback.  
thanks in advance.

I am looking at a 07 that had a leaking window. Coach was stored outside so it has some water damage in the slide where the window was. The board under the window has water damage (and mold) and I am sure there is water damage on the floor as well as carpet will need to be replaced and of course all the interior damaged wood. I am sure all of this can be repaired but a bit concerned. I am tossed buying it if the price is awesome or just not even getting involved. What are your thoughts? Is this something to walk away from or something to consider if the price is right? Any thought and comments are much appreciated.

Much discussion has transpired over the years regarding the need for sanitizing our Newell's freshwater tank. Newell actually doesn't feel there's a need, based on many factors; on-board filters, types of resorts visited, to name a couple.

In fact, our 2015 coach doesn't have a "fresh-water" rinse/filler port. Many coaches HAVE been configured to have one, especially from those who have come from other coaches.

Personally, I feel that the ONLY good answer for someone who asks if they should sanitize their tank is, "Sure, it can't hurt if you do it properly". To me, this is a lot more prudent than the answer I've heard, which is, "Why?". After all, there's NO downside to sanitizing your tank and, if nothing else, can provide you with peace of mind.

So, I set out to configure a nice little package I can carry which allows me to, very quickly, connect to the hose bib, add bleach, then inject that bleach into my tank using the built-in fill hose. This not only is super convenient, but it also gives me the advantage of running bleach through the fill hose. Of course, I make sure that fresh water thoroughly flushes both the filter housing and the hose BEFORE I disconnect.



Here's the procedure I use, which is in accordance with Aquahot:

1. Have your fresh tank around 1/2 full.
   
2. SHUT YOUR ON-BOARD WATER FILTER VALVE OFF on the Wet Bay panel.
   
3. Connect this induction system to the hose bib and coach's filler hose.
   
4. Fill housing with 2 3/4c NON-SCENTED NON-GEL Household Bleach. This small housing is the PERFECT size for the 143 gallon tank...fill it to the brim.
   
5. Fill the rest of the tank with water. This will induct the pure bleach into hose and tank and, at by the time the tank is full, the housing and hose will have been flushed with clean water.
   
6. Disconnect everything.
   
7. Take a quick lap around the lot, shaking the coach/tank as much as possible.
   
8. Open EVERY faucet, spigot, and shower head...both hot and cold sides...and flush toilets, until you smell chorinated water come out.
   
9. Let set for a minimum of 4 hours. I do it overnight.
   
10. Drain tank completely.
    
11. Fill tank to about 20% with fresh water.
    
12. Open all faucets, showers, and flush toilets once again, to flush with fresh water.
    
13. Open water filter valve.
    
14. Fill tank completely with my 3-stage filter & softened water system.
    

Looking for any information on vintage 1979 rear suspension parts.  It appears to be a Page And Page air over leaf.  Also would like to know if there are any other suspensions still available to interchange or any good ideas of what to do next.  Thanks

All,
Here is a link to the part that wears through on your HWH air control panel.....https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/rp91841-lexan-cover/

We purchased Coach #538 March 2011 from Newel Mortorcoach (we concluded that the premium charged by Newell Motorcoach for the coach was well worth it compared to the inherent maintenance issues with most FSBO coaches). Over the years we had to replace compressores, blower motors,  circuit boards and pillow bearings multiple times. In 2023 the passenger side Coleman was completely rebuilt and that was the last straw which prompted an analysis and research for alternative air conditioning solutions. It became evident that a split system would prove to be the most durable and reliable system; the problem of course was space. The research and advice that was sought out turned out to be a rather torturous process; the reason being that there was not a lot of technical knowledge within the residential HVAC community (they all were proficient only in plug and play installations-as soon as they were presented with the challenge of building a custom system with components from disparate manufacturers the HVAC contractors knowledge base vaporised). Accordingly I initially ended up with a system that would not work as the air handler and condenser were mismatched (although I had been assured that the system would work) since the condenser was an inverter communicating unit and therefore would not work with the basic air handler that had been installed.
Overview:
Please note that this is a review of an installation and rebuild of the drivers side AC basement; also this is a 2T system using, the now outdated, 410A refrigerant. The air handler was the controlling device as it had to fit the space, i.e. had to fit in the basement height and also had to be oriented to have a return utilizing the plenum (air return) cavity that is already in place and in addition have the ability to connect the discharge to the internal air duct. We chose a Goodman AWST air handler, however it required substantial modification to fit in the basement; it also required modification of the plenum. Once the Coleman AC unit was removed it was decided to rebuild the entire basement since it was apparent that modification and rebuilding/strengthening the plenum box was necessary. The air handler was cut down to a height of 29 inches to accommodate the height restriction and the blower was replaced so it could be reconfigured to accommodate a side discharge towards the duct that runs down the spine of the coach. As previously stated the condenser that was installed was mis-matched (this was a Goodman GSXS with a Goodman GTST thermostat) and therefore the system would not work. Again, another learning curve to ascertain what type condenser would work with the AWST air handler (changing the air handler was not an option as no other air handler that was researched could be cut down as described above). During this phase of research and learning a contractor friend recommended a HVAC mechanical contractor and this proved to be invaluable.  Mechanical contractors by their nature are accustomed to building and modifying custom HVAC systems; this particular HVAC mechanical contractor actually enjoyed the challenge, which facilitated completion of this project. We ended up using a thru-the-wall condenser, a NCP 4244. This also had the advantage of improving our design as it could be bolted to a Morryde sliding shelf thus allowing access to the air handler, 220v wiring and the plenum itself for maintenance and repair ( a feature that originally had been desired but could not be accommodated due to height restrictions). In addition we used no kink flexible refrigerant lines to facilitate the movement of the condenser as it is pulled out on the sliding tray. To finish the set up a standard Nest thermostat (not the leaning thermostat) was used as we could employ it to not only control the AC but also use the same thermostat to control the  Aqua Hot heat (note that the AC power to the thermostat is 24v ac and therefore a transformer changing to 12v dc was added to the Aqua Hot boiler at the relay)  in the bedroom where this thermostat is located. The system now blows cold strong air thru all the wall ducts which the Coleman did not and the split system should ensure many years of reliable air conditioning. Note that the one remaining phase of the project is to open up the basement door with a larger cut out for air flow so the condenser can draw in cool air and discharge hot air. The link to the pictures documenting the drivers side  AC rebuild (copy and paste into your browser): https://photos.app.goo.gl/g3brkdB9diU8AJ7x9

Today is the day. Firestone 9447 coming out. And Conti 8897 going back in. Had to swap the 2 stud base for the old ones but I knew I would. darn sure I'm not going to pay 500+ for airbags. Nor the labor to do it. Amazingly all the nuts and bolts broke free relatively easily. I was quite surprised.

Finally had some time to remove my smaller Scs 1301 unit that I believe has a bad fan motor. It runs for about 20-30 minutes and then quits and won’t restart till it cools off.

I had to grind off most of the screw heads and prying to get it out.  I set the unit on a motorcycle Jack and left the wires hooked up.  

I removed pretty much all the guts to get the fan motor out.  I sprayed the coils with that rv ac coil cleaner and washed it out with the hose real good.

This also gave me some access to the void inside of both of these units underneath the salon so I could sweep it out pretty good too.

For some reason there was a plexiglass cover on the bottom of the floor of the storage compartment. I got rid of that and am going to rust proof the compartment floor and put a piece of stainless down prior to putting the unit back in.  

Looking for a fan motor if anyone has a lead that would be great. More to come. Here are some pics

I have coach 458, replacing front drums and brakes, anybody know the brake drum replacement number?   97 newell