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My original problem was coach #375 was not building air pressure, running on fast idle for 40 minutes it would only build up to 75 psi on the brake gauge and 75 psi on the supply. Most everyone said it was the air governor. After a monumental task of getting the old governor off, which had to be cut off in pieces, I managed to relocate the new air governor to the fire wall in the right rear engine compartment. When I started the coach up, fast idle for 40 minutes and the air pressure built up to 75 psi in both brake and supply. When I shut the coach off, I watched the supply gauge drop to 0 psi, within a minute, the brake supply gauge is holding at 73 psi. I didn't hear any air leakingor sissing, and I have sprayed every fitting I could find with soapy water and no leaks. During my investigation my brake supply tank was about 1/3 full of water. I drained that and installed a new remote drain valve. I also found a tank welded into the cross member in the rear and drained that one. I found the air tank in the right tag axle wheel well and drained that one as well. Does anyone know what I should check now? The guys at Newell weren't any help.

Thanks,

Jeff
Coach #375

Hello everyone.  I was polishing some wheels today on my coach and I need a new front wheel.  There are 2 different wheels on this I assume from a blow out or something.  I want to replace the 4 hole wheel with another 10 hole wheel.  Does anyone have the part number??  Newell wants 2k. Figured if I could get the part number I could order it from an Alcoa dealer. Thanks it’s a 22.5”

i am looking for a good way to hex crimp ferrules on 4 and 2 gauge wire.  you can buy hex crimpers down to 5 gauge on ebay, but having spent some time looking have not come up with anything for larger wires.  i have 2 and 4 gauge ferrules...

i have not yet tried one of my 2 hydraulic cable crimpers but i suspect it will destroy the thin metal ferrule

anyone have any ideas?

thanks

tom

All,
I came across this article  and read with great interest as I have pretty much been resolved to think our Polyethylene tanks aren't repairable.  In this article they use West Systems G/Flex 655 to repair a cracked holding tank.  I have not used this method but have committed this to my memory bank for future possibilities.

https://www.rvtravel.com/flexible-holdin...uTTmsO4FWg

Looking for a recaro drivers seat for my 82 classic

i installed this today.   quite slick fridge fixer 

they have different versions for all different door types.  

tom

https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/5065F...f_=ast_bln

I recently blew an inner drive axle tire which took out the HCV.  I installed a new one but there doesn't seem to be any arm position that doesn't result in air escaping from the exhaust port.  Is there some trick to this, or did I get a bad valve?

In my tank bay I have found 2 different leaks that I would not have thought there should be fittings.

The first one, not pictured was behind my water isolation panel. It was a dead-end line with a push on connector. I don't know what this line would have been needed for. This line was zip tied behind a large electrical line bundle. I could barely hear it, (or see it) and once I had taken the panel off and started to remove zip ties, I saw it. This one was only about 18" inside so with a full arm stretch, I could get to it.

The 2nd one was a brass tee with 3 push connect fittings located in the middle of the chassis and above the pure water tank. I am preparing for a longer trip and had not planned on removing both pumps, the water isolation valve assembly and the pure water tank. After about 10 hrs (I'm slow) I got it all out and replumbed the line with a DOT compression coupler in the middle of the chassis and reinstalled the Tee with DOT compression couplers near the DS outer door just before the 2 lines head up the exterior wall. 

I now am reinstalling a new treated wood separator between the tanks, the tank, and all the plumbing. 

Picture don't come out that well or do justice to the location.

I have had intermittent starter engagement for some time, it kept getting more frequent, 2020P Coach 1482.  It always started from the engine compartment switch.  I think (hope) I finally resolved it.  There is a Silverleaf Rear Load Panel in the engine compartment with relays and wiring that go to the starter relay (Solenoid) mounted on the starter.  There is a Black/Red Starter Solenoid wire that goes to the front Fuse Panel where the air compressors are.  I found a K31 Relay in it which was powered whenever the Key Switch was rotated to the Start position.  I changed the relay on principal.  The engine has started every time since then (knock on wood)

Starter Wiring 2.pdf Size: 326.56 KB  Downloads: 5

I’m Good afternoon, looking to purchase a 2009-2014 Newell, mid entry (if possible), 600+hp, Allison transmission, bath and a half, king bed. Located in Az. [email protected] or 928.486.7567