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On our last trip home from Florida I parked the bus and started opening up or home from being gone for almost 5 months and came out the next morning and seen a spot on the concrete about 1 foot in diameter stuck my finger in it and found out it was coolant so crawled under and took a look and it was dripping from a weep hole on the bottom of the pump. This is on a series 60 engine so it will apply to a great deal of coaches here. I believe this to be the original pump so its 30 years old and has 210k miles on it. The pump replacement is pretty straightforward has 3 bolts that hold it to the back of the cam cover, only an O ring for sealing so no gasket. The old pump and new pump have different part numbers but they are the same except one of the ports on the bottom of the new pump is 3/8 inch rather than 1/4 inch so if your going to use that port you'll have to change fitting or buy a reducer bushing. Pump was $275 and shipping from AZ so thats not bad but I decided to change all the hose connections and what paint all the coolant pipes while I was at it. The new coolant pipes was not cheap and they vary in size all the way up to 3.125 ID. I bought 3 foot sticks of 3.125 2.625, 2.75, 1.625 to the tune of $400 bucks and there is a silicone hose kit for the water pump to the tune of $69. Coolant filter $15.

First step is to drain the coolant, I used a plastic tote to catch the fluid then a electric fountain pump to send to a 55 gallon plastic drum, total amount of coolant was roughly 15 gallons. Before I put it back in a used a antifreeze test kit to check for acid level and coolant consistency which Gordon said was a must do.  The hardest part of the whole job is replacing hoses, again I lost a pint of blood and looked like I'd been in a fight with lion. Painted all the lines and new water pump.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/256770498259?
mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11400.m144671.l197929&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=c64fad7741c2422cb3caccfd47acdc2d&bu=43196671996&exe=0&ext=0&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20260427065755&segname=11400

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C34FMMS5?ref...asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753MZT7P?ref...asin_title

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156795590842

I'm putting my 1994 Newell build # 370 up for sale.  This coach is in above average condition for a 1994.  Here is the link to the ad on RV Trader.com:

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1994-Ne...sid=944180

Hopefully it will go to a good home.

I can't turn the stearing wheel when setting still, it requires some movment in forward or reverse to turn. This makes for a lot of moving slightly foreward and backwards when in a tight spot.
Is this normal?

Is it ok to replace all my marker, tail, brake, and turn lights with LEDs or is there something in the electronic system that would provent that?

2005 #738

Is the ferry doable in a 2020P model coach?

Getting ready to head to the NoRally Rally in TN and find a huge blood stain on the floor under the engine… it’s antifreeze and I found the culprit - one of the hose bib hoses clamps is loose or so I thought - I readjusted the clamp (self tensioning type) and added another up higher on the hose. Could the hose have expanded? I did notice that ALL of the valves are closed but my engine ran perfectly and the heat stayed in range from OK to MO to AL over 1000 miles. Not sure if I should snip off some of the hose and reclamp or maybe get a better clamp… anyway I have to get some more Final Charge :-( still a small leak…

It has been a long time since I posted something.
We have traveled full time in this coach for over a decade. This coach is now for sale.

1995 Newell (coach 384)
368,822 miles
All electric coach
Detroit 60 needs overall and is not in good working condition. This unit needs to be hauled by truck to destination from northern New Hampshire.
Replaced Charge Air Cooler 4/25
New coach batteries 8/25
New chassis batteries 4/25
Exterior in Fair Condition
Tires in Good Condition
Interior in Good Condition
Interior remodeled with day/night shades and accented with black acrylic.
Original full-size refrigerator
Full-size stacked Whirlpool washer and dryer 8/20
2 roof air conditioners (3 and 5 years old)
1 remaining original air conditioner in front of coach
New 20-gallon electric water heater.
1 year old Kubota 11,000-watt generator (only 100 hours)
No furnaces-Old Aquahot removed.
We purchased the coach from Motorhomes of Texas in December 2011 and have traveled across the US fulltime. At this time, we do have the desire or time to invest in remanning (overhauling) the Detroit 60.
This coach would be a great fixer upper for those wanting the quality of a Newell. Or a readymade Airbnb as is.

Asking $32,000 with Kubota generator or $27,000 without generator.

Call 603-616-8907 for more details. Steve and Dana Grohman

So everything seems to be operating up until it doesn't..

I'm trying to hopefully think that it's something other than the fan motor itself...

So I opened it all up and I observed two things at the point in which activating the AC...
Okay three things. 

One the motor and/or the fan blades squirrel cage seem to be occasionally touching the metal  housing around it ven when I got it spinning for a while I could hear a little rub every now and again...
Not knowing how this is exactly constructed behind the fan blades I wanted to assume that there was another bearing on the other side of the fan to stabilize it but I don't think that's the case based on some pictures that I found elsewhere... Anyway fiddling was a bit I was able to get it to spend freely with my fingers sort of and then I turned on the Ac.  That said the housing seems to flex more than I liked ..

Two after about 1 to 3 minutes of blower blowing appearing to be normal speed it just shut down Stop blowing which then causes the evaporator in the front to get very hot and shut down the whole unit...

The third thing I found was a little piece of rubber or foam ..appeared to be like maybe an old grommet or something else maybe insulation from somewhere inside the housing about the size of my thumb inside the squirrel cage...... I removed it before I did anything else but I think it's worthy to note is that might have warped the squirrel cage or may have come from somewhere else that I need to find out where it came from so I can replace it I failed to keep it It got thrown out with some other trash that I had there's just inconspicuous. Black colored foam... Or very deteriorated rubber. 

So I think my question is is there electrical that could be interfering with this shutting down the motor or is this truly the motor locking up on its own is there a way to diagnose the difference...

Am I at a place I just need to order a new motor and swap it and see what happens..

I figured somebody else out here has got to have been in a similar situation and have some advice to give I'm all ears.... I just don't want to go deep dive into it if it's something I can just work on while it's still mounted in the rig. 

Thanks for listening/reading. 
Ron

Hey All,
So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down. 

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work. 

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they
don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work. 

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.

Hey All,
So I plugged in a 12V battery into the old cigarette style port under our (2008) and it shut the whole system down. 

After a system restart, the salon and d/s slide lights sections would not come on although the the switch illuminated on. I went and checked the fuses and they were okay. I pressed the manual override switch on the fuses and they do work. 

So the panel switch illuminates on, the fuses are good, but they don’t turn on. The fuse override does provide power to lights so they do still work. 

Is there some sort of relay that was blown when I plugged in that battery charger? Any insight would greatly be appreciated.

Hey All, as we start are 3rd season in our coach, we are experiencing the entry door sticking when being opened - with a very loud thud. It looks like the “cleats” that hold the door shut have little to no grade on them. After releveling, this seems to be the only thing, but I wanted to ask before applying grease and making it worse. 

Also, what lube should be used for this?