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Good morning

I’m new to the Newell family having bought my first one just a few months ago. I’m having issues with the televator (tv lift). The tv lift is an activated decor lift.  I was out camping and lost all power one evening, while the tv was up. After restoring power, the tv lift will not go back down. When I flip the switch to retract the tv it just makes a beeping sound. It seems like I may need to do a reset or reprogram the limits or something along those lines. Problem is I don’t have a manual in all my info. I’ve called activated decor and received a voicemail where I left a message. After no response I emailed their info email address and still have not received any response from them. It’s been about 10 days now. Does anyone on here have a manual or a procedure for setting limits or resetting the lift? I’ve read that there is a control box for these and there is a reset inside that box, but I don’t seem to see any type of box in the tv cabinet area. I have attached a photo of the remote control for the lift.

   
If anybody has some light covers like this that you would part with I am interested. I need several and would pay a fair price!!

                   
I spent my spare time over the winter updating 316.
I installed a Growatt 6k invertor/charger and an LG mini-split system. The pics show the condenser unit (24k BTU) in the bay that formerly held four of the six house batteries. It draws air up through the floor behind the unit. You can see the ducting next to the battery rack. The air is then exhausted out the side. The next bay houses the Growatt, the two Litime 8D size 24 volt Lithium batteries, two Victron 48/12 volt charge controllers that feed 12 volt to charge the two 8D AGM house batts and the engine start batts. The inside pics show the low-wall mounted unit(15k BTU) positioned just behind the driver seat and an upper wall unit(9k BTU) on the back wall in the rear bedroom. I have eight 450 watt solar panels that I plan to install ASAP.
All work was done by me in my shop with the help of a couple buddies who assisted with routing the refrigerant lines. I was quite challenged because much of the skills needed were learn as I go.... Trial and error!!!
I would like to thank Jack Houpe for helping me with most of the technical decisions, patiently explaining how things work, helping me correct my mistakes, and "talking me off the ledge" about midway through when the project seemed overwhelming!!

Hey gurus, What are the options when a windshield gets cracked or broken? 

Thanks!
James

I got off the horn with Valid a little earlier regarding the Pressure Switch Failure error resulting in the Curbside Salon Slide not cycling through(it would only drop the floor). I swapped pressure switches(SMC) from the rear slide to the front, and still got the error(even after cycling all power off/on). It turns out that all you need to do is Press and Release the Shift button once, then press and release the Slide/Select button once to reset the error. Some gurus may have known this already, but I was getting pretty anxious until Craig at Valid called me back. This may also work to reset other errors as well. I just kept laughing at how easy it was.

Justin

For the life of me, I can't find the 15.5" X 7" shoes for the front brakes. I may have to upgrade to the 16 1/2" drums and shoes and was wondering if anybody has done the switch? I'm primarily interested in what it cost, sourcing of parts and the degree of difficulty. I found a guy in Florida who will fabricate the linings and bond and rivet them to the shoes. The cost is $185 p/shoe X 4 plus $180 shipping each way. It is almost a thousand dollars to get the remanufactured shoes. I was thinking the upgrade may be a little more, but may be worth it. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

i am considering a 2009 Newell #1280.  if anyone has any info and or history on it i would  appreciate feedback.  
thanks in advance.

I am looking at a 07 that had a leaking window. Coach was stored outside so it has some water damage in the slide where the window was. The board under the window has water damage (and mold) and I am sure there is water damage on the floor as well as carpet will need to be replaced and of course all the interior damaged wood. I am sure all of this can be repaired but a bit concerned. I am tossed buying it if the price is awesome or just not even getting involved. What are your thoughts? Is this something to walk away from or something to consider if the price is right? Any thought and comments are much appreciated.

Much discussion has transpired over the years regarding the need for sanitizing our Newell's freshwater tank. Newell actually doesn't feel there's a need, based on many factors; on-board filters, types of resorts visited, to name a couple.

In fact, our 2015 coach doesn't have a "fresh-water" rinse/filler port. Many coaches HAVE been configured to have one, especially from those who have come from other coaches.

Personally, I feel that the ONLY good answer for someone who asks if they should sanitize their tank is, "Sure, it can't hurt if you do it properly". To me, this is a lot more prudent than the answer I've heard, which is, "Why?". After all, there's NO downside to sanitizing your tank and, if nothing else, can provide you with peace of mind.

So, I set out to configure a nice little package I can carry which allows me to, very quickly, connect to the hose bib, add bleach, then inject that bleach into my tank using the built-in fill hose. This not only is super convenient, but it also gives me the advantage of running bleach through the fill hose. Of course, I make sure that fresh water thoroughly flushes both the filter housing and the hose BEFORE I disconnect.



Here's the procedure I use, which is in accordance with Aquahot:

1. Have your fresh tank around 1/2 full.
   
2. SHUT YOUR ON-BOARD WATER FILTER VALVE OFF on the Wet Bay panel.
   
3. Connect this induction system to the hose bib and coach's filler hose.
   
4. Fill housing with 2 3/4c NON-SCENTED NON-GEL Household Bleach. This small housing is the PERFECT size for the 143 gallon tank...fill it to the brim.
   
5. Fill the rest of the tank with water. This will induct the pure bleach into hose and tank and, at by the time the tank is full, the housing and hose will have been flushed with clean water.
   
6. Disconnect everything.
   
7. Take a quick lap around the lot, shaking the coach/tank as much as possible.
   
8. Open EVERY faucet, spigot, and shower head...both hot and cold sides...and flush toilets, until you smell chorinated water come out.
   
9. Let set for a minimum of 4 hours. I do it overnight.
   
10. Drain tank completely.
    
11. Fill tank to about 20% with fresh water.
    
12. Open all faucets, showers, and flush toilets once again, to flush with fresh water.
    
13. Open water filter valve.
    
14. Fill tank completely with my 3-stage filter & softened water system.
    

Looking for any information on vintage 1979 rear suspension parts.  It appears to be a Page And Page air over leaf.  Also would like to know if there are any other suspensions still available to interchange or any good ideas of what to do next.  Thanks