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During the night last night the shower exhaust fan opened and started running without turning it on from the control panel.  Pushing the button on the wall switch panel no longer controls the fan, but the button does switch from blue to red and back.  The fan has worked correctly for the first few days of the trip. This is not an issue urgent enough to call the hotline, and I can manually turn it of with the switch on the fan and I think I can close the lid for travel. So was just curious if anyone had any insight.  We have only had this coach for a couple of weeks and is our first time out in it so not completely familiar with any electrical quirks we may have.  Thanks

Doug 
2016 #1542

Good morning all

Our original Amana refrigerator has completely died on us.  After installing new evaporator and condenser fans it worked well for a month or so but has stopped all together now.

We have found a new refrigerator that will work for us and we are going to pick it up this weekend. 

On the thread for our refrigerator, there was mention that the original Heart Freedom 25 could have contributed to the death of our refrigerator, being that it's not a pure sine wave inverter.

My concern with a newer and probably much more sensitive electrical system on the new refrigerator is that the old inverter could possibly damage the new unit. 

Our plan is to replace the old inverter with a new pure sine wave inverter/charger from Victron (probably) ASAP to prevent any electrical damage on the new appliances.

My big question is in regards to wiring the new inverter/charger. 

The original inverter powers 3 twenty amp breakers in a small breaker box right next to it.  The box is fed by a roughly 2' section 10/3 cable from the inverter to a 30A receptacle that then feeds the breaker box, which seems simple enough.  I'm guessing that this is 240v feed, but I have not checked yet.

The thing that is confusing me is that there is an external Corcom EMI Filter that comes out of the inverter and feeds off to somewhere.   I'm not sure what the purpose of this EMI Filter is or where it feeds to.

Unfortunately I have not found any paperwork for the original inverter in the coach and we do not have any coach wiring diagrams like we had with our Foretravel. 

I'm sure a lot of people have replaced the old inverter and I'd be grateful for any advice.

I have posted pictures of the inverter layout and the EMI Filter that I'm talking about.

Thank you
Tyler Phillips

Lower small (convex) mirror is loose. Just wobbles around.  How can I dismantle and reattach the mirror?

Hi everyone.  I have a 1983 Newell that I'm getting up to spec. Repairs are going nicely but the load center is starting to go out. I need to find a replacement which is easier said than done due to the age of it. The load center is a Square D QO 8-16 series L5. Sounds searching brought up a couple of L4's but I was wondering if anyone would happen to either know the whereabouts of another L5 or an equivalent loac center that would work due to the space confines. The load center sits in the back closet so space is limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


1983 Newell Coach 
40 feet Detroit 6v92
Charleston, Illinois

I was sent this from a friend and have to share it as it applies to many here. 

https://youtu.be/g8vHhgh6oM0?si=yuiQ9bqIr-KjHZ8s

With my Victron conversion, I have 2 Magnum 4024’s for sale.

1 was working when I removed it, though I would want it checked out before I installed it

The second 4024 may be repairable, but I did not look into that. It at least has some parts.  It shot flames out the front end in December 2024.  I did remove the cover and inspect it.  It does not look that bad, though somebody like the Inverter Service Center over in TN may disagree. 

I have both remotes that work fine. 

This setup was installed by M&M RV Electronics for the PO in 2017. 

$500 for the whole lot. 

I’d recommend pickup due to shipping costs. Possible delivery to the Northeast this summer.

I have a real ddec 1 and 2 scanner amalyzer. Not the silver leaf.  I will post pictures and model later.   I will figure out a price later I had this for my 1990 8v92.  If interested let me know.

Spotted a beautiful Newell Coach, dark  colors, pulling a stacker trailer southbound Interstate 35W  just North of DFW about 3:30 Pm Thursday March 20, 2025, we were Northbound. Too stressed to look for details more details, dealing with North Texas drivers. Only Newell we spotted from Dallas to Amana Iowa.

We are still in Gulf Shores area and met up with some friends we made from the last rally. He and I had a discussion over the phone about replacing the valves on the bottom of the front tanks that sit behind the front axle and prone to air leaking plus difficult to get to. One of the valves was up against the frame and totally impossible to open or take out without loosening up the mounts and shifting the tank, so I had an idea and we made a Lowes, Home Depot and Harbor Freight run and came back with the fittings to drain the tanks from the end of the tank where there is a 3/8" brass plug. We bought two 90 degree 1/4" mpt by 1/4" compression fittings and two 3/8" by 1/4" inch brass reducers and one 1/8" by 2" brass nipple and a small roll of 1/4" copper tubing. We cut the 1/8" brass nipple in two pieces then tapped the bottom side of the two 90 degree 1/4" mpt by 1/4" compression fittings with 1/8" MPT pipe threads and screwed the nipple into the bottom of the fitting then I cut about a foot of copper tubing and bent it to stick through the end of the tank and just touch the bottom of the tank then marked the tubing cut and soldered it into the 1/8" brass nipple. After putting pipe thread compound on the threads I installed the units in the end of the tank with the 90 degree 1/4" pointing down which is where the tubing is pointing at the bottom of the tank. 

I am terrible at explaining this but a picture is worth a thousand words. We drained at least 3 gallon of water from the tank that could not be accessed the other was dry.

Our #277 1991 Newell began leaking engine coolant from the front inline heat control valve located behind the front end. After much research, we've determined it is a "pull to open" 3/4" inlet/outlet heater valve. A Four Seasons #74764 (NAPA 935039) is an exact replacement.

Happy miles,
deg