05-18-2014, 08:00 AM
Jake Brake Fixed! I wanted to document this for others that may have this problem in the future.
The problem was Voltage Drops that didn't show up until tested under load. There was about .5 Volts Drop across the Glass Fuse so I installed a Spade Type Fuse Holder in it's place. There was an even bigger problem with the Dash Switch that showed 1.2 Volts Drop but only intermittent so that was replaced as well.
Since I needed to Adjust the Micro Switch that is Piston Activated at the Buffer Location I simply made sure that it was in the Closed Position. This activated the Solenoids inside the Valve Covers and put the System under Load, this made it so that I could find the Voltage Drops. I then removed the Valve Covers and began to test Voltage at the Solenoids, low at 9.8 Volts! Now to the Front Fuse Block (#16) and then working my way back, to Dash Switch, to Front Terminal Strip (#36), to Rear Terminal Strip (#23), to the Buffer Activated Micro Switch (No Fuel Closes N.O) then finally to the Solenoids.
After the repairs I had full voltage at the Solenoids. I then Adjusted the Micro Switch by Sliding it In until I could hear it "click" and confirmed that it was now Closed using the Volt Meter on the Solenoid, then moving the Switch Back until I could hear it "click" again confirming that it was now Open using the Volt Meter on the Solenoid. ***With the Valve Cover Off you can actually see the Solenoid Pull In when Raising the RPM and then Decreasing the RPM.
Here is the Wiring as I found it on my '82 with Detroit Diesel.
The problem was Voltage Drops that didn't show up until tested under load. There was about .5 Volts Drop across the Glass Fuse so I installed a Spade Type Fuse Holder in it's place. There was an even bigger problem with the Dash Switch that showed 1.2 Volts Drop but only intermittent so that was replaced as well.
Since I needed to Adjust the Micro Switch that is Piston Activated at the Buffer Location I simply made sure that it was in the Closed Position. This activated the Solenoids inside the Valve Covers and put the System under Load, this made it so that I could find the Voltage Drops. I then removed the Valve Covers and began to test Voltage at the Solenoids, low at 9.8 Volts! Now to the Front Fuse Block (#16) and then working my way back, to Dash Switch, to Front Terminal Strip (#36), to Rear Terminal Strip (#23), to the Buffer Activated Micro Switch (No Fuel Closes N.O) then finally to the Solenoids.
After the repairs I had full voltage at the Solenoids. I then Adjusted the Micro Switch by Sliding it In until I could hear it "click" and confirmed that it was now Closed using the Volt Meter on the Solenoid, then moving the Switch Back until I could hear it "click" again confirming that it was now Open using the Volt Meter on the Solenoid. ***With the Valve Cover Off you can actually see the Solenoid Pull In when Raising the RPM and then Decreasing the RPM.
Here is the Wiring as I found it on my '82 with Detroit Diesel.
Steve & Patti, Bonnie and Tucker
1982 Newell 38' Classic, DD 6V92
cocktails for as many will fit in the site, dinner for as many can sit at the pick-nick table and sleeps 2 since I fixed the couch