09-22-2012, 03:44 PM
Thought I should take a little time and document some of my latest projects in case it might help somone in the future.
This project should have been addressed a long time ago. Totally my fault for not doing that. When I had the coach out for pre-purchase inspection in Phoenix at Williams for the dyno run, they noted the muffler was loose somewhere above the inlet.
It finally caught up with me doing the big climbs out west. The paint got singed on the wall of the small bay with the power cable. I decided them to do something when I got back.
The muffler intself is probably ready for replacement, but I first wanted to address the looseness. Contacting Newell with pictures of the muffler resulted in John Clark's saying they had the muffler and hangers in stock - $870 and $59. Mike Ellis said "positive it's broke at the stainless flex just above the floor". He also advised the repair would require removal of the engine fan and radiator! All I could see were dollars flying through the air.
Apparantly in my case Newell purchased 5" dia. stainless steel flex and welds a 5" short piece of exhaust pipe on each end. The flex goes from the exit of the turbo just through the floor of the engine compartment. The entire distance is wrapped in an insulating blanket. Access back in there is just not possible.
I didn't ask Mike how he knew where it would be broken, but I bet it is not the first one to fail there. I decided to take it apart and see what I could do.
I have included pictures that will help tell the story and explain what my words may not make clear. I cut the old hangers and the muffler was out. Sure enough, the connection between the short exhaust pipe and the stainless flex was no longer connected. If you look at that piece you will see the weld is just fine, but the first rotation of the flex broke away. What could I do?
Well, the stainless itself looks very good - no surprise there I guess. I really didn't want to drive to Miami nor did I want to let someone local start taking the fan and radiator out. On top of that, what assurance would I have that the origianl design would not fail again in the same way?
I decided to purchase a much longer piece of pipe and put it up inside the flex. It would be so long that it could not come out unless the muffler was removed. It might not be totally gas tight, but it would be very close. I planned to purchase a "T" bolt band clamp, but that didn't work out. The stainelss flex is just took strong to compress.
I purchased the hangars and when they arrived they were is no way similar to the existing ones. After cutting them to shorten their reach and drilling holes in the floor of the engine compartment to mount them I was able to make them work.
It was difficult to force the pipe into the flex, but that is not really a bad thing as I think it will stay right where I put it. I used small floor jacks to help me reinstall the old muffer, after having it welded up at a local shop. I may still need to replace it but that will be easy now that I have the inlet and hangars all fixed. I still need to shine up the tip and install the 6" saddle clamp that is not here yet. Russ
This project should have been addressed a long time ago. Totally my fault for not doing that. When I had the coach out for pre-purchase inspection in Phoenix at Williams for the dyno run, they noted the muffler was loose somewhere above the inlet.
It finally caught up with me doing the big climbs out west. The paint got singed on the wall of the small bay with the power cable. I decided them to do something when I got back.
The muffler intself is probably ready for replacement, but I first wanted to address the looseness. Contacting Newell with pictures of the muffler resulted in John Clark's saying they had the muffler and hangers in stock - $870 and $59. Mike Ellis said "positive it's broke at the stainless flex just above the floor". He also advised the repair would require removal of the engine fan and radiator! All I could see were dollars flying through the air.
Apparantly in my case Newell purchased 5" dia. stainless steel flex and welds a 5" short piece of exhaust pipe on each end. The flex goes from the exit of the turbo just through the floor of the engine compartment. The entire distance is wrapped in an insulating blanket. Access back in there is just not possible.
I didn't ask Mike how he knew where it would be broken, but I bet it is not the first one to fail there. I decided to take it apart and see what I could do.
I have included pictures that will help tell the story and explain what my words may not make clear. I cut the old hangers and the muffler was out. Sure enough, the connection between the short exhaust pipe and the stainless flex was no longer connected. If you look at that piece you will see the weld is just fine, but the first rotation of the flex broke away. What could I do?
Well, the stainless itself looks very good - no surprise there I guess. I really didn't want to drive to Miami nor did I want to let someone local start taking the fan and radiator out. On top of that, what assurance would I have that the origianl design would not fail again in the same way?
I decided to purchase a much longer piece of pipe and put it up inside the flex. It would be so long that it could not come out unless the muffler was removed. It might not be totally gas tight, but it would be very close. I planned to purchase a "T" bolt band clamp, but that didn't work out. The stainelss flex is just took strong to compress.
I purchased the hangars and when they arrived they were is no way similar to the existing ones. After cutting them to shorten their reach and drilling holes in the floor of the engine compartment to mount them I was able to make them work.
It was difficult to force the pipe into the flex, but that is not really a bad thing as I think it will stay right where I put it. I used small floor jacks to help me reinstall the old muffer, after having it welded up at a local shop. I may still need to replace it but that will be easy now that I have the inlet and hangars all fixed. I still need to shine up the tip and install the 6" saddle clamp that is not here yet. Russ
Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530 ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004