12-03-2017, 04:27 PM
As the coach sat for the last 2 years in a building, the previous owner came to it every couple of weeks and started the engine to build air and make sure all is fine. About 4 months ago he noticed that the air was not coming up and upon further investigation they found out that the engine air compressor was not working right. A new engine air compressor was installed along with a new air dryer and D2 governor.
As I drove it home from Monroe LA, I noticed that the air gauges were cycling a lot between 95 and 120 or so but I knew I had 3 leaks upfront- the 60psi safety switch on the parking brake was leaking, the SR-1 relay valve on the other side of the firewall next to the 6 pack was blowing air out of the bottom and 2 of the 1/2" air line elbows on the brake pedal manifold had minor leaks.
Once I got home, I fixed all these fast. I can still hear a leak around the front driver wheel (airbag, connection or brake chamber) and will sort it out shortly.
Today I had to drive it to Duncan RV in Elkhart to have a new driven windshield installed tomorrow.
With all the front air leaks fixed the gauges were staying nice at 100 to 120 psi cycling at idle.
But..once I started driving, both gauges were pegged to 150 psi, then cycling down to 130 not less.....the only time they went down to 100 is when I was at a stop light and had my foot on the brake. Once I started driving again back to 150 psi....I think this is rather high air pressure. Am I wrong ?
Is it possible that the new air compressor and air dryer when installed were not adjusted properly ? Or the wrong D2 governor ?
What should be done ? I have to drive it Thursday to WW Williams in Grand Rapids for the oil service, air bags replacement and height valves replacement but wonder if I have to do something before that......Don't want to blow up an airbag or brake chamber diaphragm and the highway if the air is too high an stays high like this.
Any advice ? Thoughts ?
Thanks
As I drove it home from Monroe LA, I noticed that the air gauges were cycling a lot between 95 and 120 or so but I knew I had 3 leaks upfront- the 60psi safety switch on the parking brake was leaking, the SR-1 relay valve on the other side of the firewall next to the 6 pack was blowing air out of the bottom and 2 of the 1/2" air line elbows on the brake pedal manifold had minor leaks.
Once I got home, I fixed all these fast. I can still hear a leak around the front driver wheel (airbag, connection or brake chamber) and will sort it out shortly.
Today I had to drive it to Duncan RV in Elkhart to have a new driven windshield installed tomorrow.
With all the front air leaks fixed the gauges were staying nice at 100 to 120 psi cycling at idle.
But..once I started driving, both gauges were pegged to 150 psi, then cycling down to 130 not less.....the only time they went down to 100 is when I was at a stop light and had my foot on the brake. Once I started driving again back to 150 psi....I think this is rather high air pressure. Am I wrong ?
Is it possible that the new air compressor and air dryer when installed were not adjusted properly ? Or the wrong D2 governor ?
What should be done ? I have to drive it Thursday to WW Williams in Grand Rapids for the oil service, air bags replacement and height valves replacement but wonder if I have to do something before that......Don't want to blow up an airbag or brake chamber diaphragm and the highway if the air is too high an stays high like this.
Any advice ? Thoughts ?
Thanks
MG