[Richard]

Jon, great questions as usual.

First the core is supported on the bottom. The fins rest on the bottom rail of the outer structure.

My leaks have been in the same place generally. Both at the inlet tank end, and both mid way between the top and bottom on the outer tubes. The last leaks were both on the outer side and the engine side. Mine were not dripping, more like a wet spot on the radiator. White paper towels would turn pink in about a week.

I have looked at tons of other RV’s. Rhonda expects me to spend 30 minutes anytime I see a FL or Spartan Chassis at an RV show. The construction of the radiator is very similar. What is different is that the frame that supports the radiator is usually suspended at each end. And that suspension typically includes a rubber isolation mount. The Newell radiator frame sits flat on the floor in the engine compartment.

Joe put me to work. I had previously tried to resolver the header tube junction. I had used a propane torch, a MAPP torch, and a #2 tip on an Oxy Acetylene torch. Basically all of them produced too much general heat for a localized repair. They all may have worked if all the original solder were heated and removed, but trying a one tube repair was beyond my skill with those tools. The melted area would simply get too big too quick. But, I had obtained a micro torch, aka jewelers torch, for the Oxy Acetylene setup. It’s a cute little thing. I played with it last night, and happy to report that it was very easy to resolver one tube at a time. Just info in case someone wants to try repairing their core.