[Richard]

Not knowing how big the leak is, makes it hard to comment on the wisdom of driving. Pics would help. Paper towels are very useful for finding leaks, the green or red shows up nicely on bits of white paper towel stuffed in different places. By spacing them out a bit, to prevent wicking you can see where the leak originates. Keep in mind water does run up hill, so the first downhill bit of towel that is colored is the location of the leak.

Lots of people have driven for long periods with minor leaks. Are we talking a gallon every 10 miles, 100 miles, 1000 miles?

I know of one person who successfully stopped a leak with a commercial leak stop that radiator shops use. I don’t personally care for that approach, but it worked. https://www.northernradiator.com/SHOP_SU...S/RW0114-1
I am not endorsing this product, just telling you what the guy used.

How did you determine your radiator could not be recored? Some surface rust is to be expected. Is the outer support structure rusted through? They make these things called welders. There is nothing fancy about the outer frame. Now if the tanks are rusted through, that is a bit harder to fix. I am just saying that given the circumstances, all options can be considered to make a good decision.

If the leak is where the fins are soldered to the header, DO NOT tighten the header to tank bolts in an attempt to stop the leak. First those bolts are only tightened to 10 ft lbs from the git go. They compress a cork gasket. If you tighten them you put more stress on the tube to header joint, and the leak will get worse. I learned this the hard way trying to address a leak while on the road for six months.