Well after I almost burned the coach to the ground on our last trip I’m swapping out the current cooktop for an induction and need a better understanding on how to wire 120 when there is currently 240.
Also want to figure out if it can be run via inverter?
And no, current cooktop did not cause almost fire…the idiot who had a burner knob set on 9 with a closed lid did. It was almost a bad deal. Thankfully Corian has a high combustion point. Finding a piece of 20 year old bone colored Corian hat been the toughest part.
Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
Towing 2020 Grand Cherokee Summit
St. Louis, MO
(This post was last modified: 06-14-2024, 06:09 PM by 360.)
In the romex wire that leads to the current cooktop, you will see four wires. Black, Red, White and Green/Bare Copper.
In the exist setup, the power will be wired Black to Red, that is 220, White is ignored. Green/copper is ground. To get 120, you will wire Black to White for one burner, Red to White if a two burner, and ground to ground of course.
That circuit is not currently wired to an inverter circuit. It is possible to run a 120V cooktop off of an inverter, but you would need some wiring changes at the inverter breaker box and the main breaker box to achieve that.
If you must, the easiest way to do that would be to add a larger box and circuit to the inverter breaker box and pull a completely new wire to the induction top. However, if it’s a two burner top, you will not be able to run both burners at the same time due to the limitations of the inverter. I believe your inverter is 3200 watts. One induction burner circuit is 1800 watts. Two circuits would be 3600 and would trip the inverter.
Clear as mud?
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Sorry about the mishap. Maybe think outside the box on the corian? A 1/2 piece of birch plywood painted or stained would work and could double as a cutting board. Home depot sells acacia butcher block in various sizes. Maybe just make a drop in cutting board?
Brad,
Bill's idea is a great option....if you want to go back with the corian, go to a cabinet shop that is a corian dealer they should have a small piece in the size and color you need. They will also have the color matched adhesive kit as well. If they don't want to do the work Corian is real easy to work with. Cut out the heat damaged section and make a plug to fit bond the plug in your cutout with the Corian adhesive. Orbital sand the area starting with say 120 grit and work your way up to 220 maybe another step finer if you need to match the exiting counter top sheen.
Thanks for everyone's insight and ideas. I do have the sink cover that I never use and really can't imagine anyone using which maybe could be used to splice in the hole? I do have a corian fabricator that has been great on some other projects I've had at the house. They didn't have enough scraps around from that era, but can get me a new sheet if needed. Checking with Creslie to see if Newell happens to have any, but I'm not counting on that either. Have thought an about butcher block as it wouldn't look bad, but I don't think we'd ever use it to cut anything. Decisions, decisions.
Honestly just glad this is all I had to fix and I'd been looking for a reason to swap the cooktop anyway so it could be worse.
Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
Towing 2020 Grand Cherokee Summit
St. Louis, MO
Newell was able to find some old stock laying around. It's 1/2 vs. 1/4, but we can just mill the edge as the induction does not have knobs that would hit.
Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
Towing 2020 Grand Cherokee Summit
St. Louis, MO
Our coach had suffered the same fate at the hands of a previous owner (found the melted, split cover in a bay). We looked at inverter surfaces but couldn't find one that drew 20 amps so we elected for a traditional 4 burner glass top (Samsung). We removed the old two-burner and had a countertop shop enlarge the hole to accommodate the operating portion of the cooktop and the glass sits flat on the countertop. We are VERY happy with both the appearance and the functionality (we were inspired by having the same setup on the sportfish). As a bonus we didn't lose any functionality in the drawers below the cooktop.
(06-20-2024, 06:12 AM)Sea Note Wrote: Our coach had suffered the same fate at the hands of a previous owner (found the melted, split cover in a bay). We looked at inverter surfaces but couldn't find one that drew 20 amps so we elected for a traditional 4 burner glass top (Samsung). We removed the old two-burner and had a countertop shop enlarge the hole to accommodate the operating portion of the cooktop and the glass sits flat on the countertop. We are VERY happy with both the appearance and the functionality (we were inspired by having the same setup on the sportfish). As a bonus we didn't lose any functionality in the drawers below the cooktop.
Best of luck,
db
I was thinking about that as well. If we cooked more having more than just the two small burners would be nice. Here is what I ended up with and based upon Richard's notes above I'm not certain I could even power it off of inverter if I wanted to. Thankfully the place we primarily travel to is fine with me adding a 50 amp, so I may be plugged in for a good amount of our traveling now anyway which would be super nice as there would be no generator needing to be fired up purely for the microwave or cooktop. #seeinghowtheotherhalflivessoon
The issue I was running into was that all of the inverter units I looked at drew 30 amps and neither my breaker box nor the existing wiring supported more than 20.
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A 1/2 piece of birch plywood painted or stained would work and could double as a cutting board. Home depot sells acacia butcher block in various sizes. Maybe just make a drop in cutting board?
