[Ozarkguy]

While you are in the area, put a wrench on the gearbox mounting bolts. Mine was loose enough that the box moved with steering input causing slop in the steering.

On another note: mirroring Richards comment.. If you adjust the lash on the steering box "Use Caution" on over tightening. A little slop is better than none... There are a number of utube videos on adjusting the steering gearbox.

[ccjohnson]

Have it pretty much dismantled. Waiting a special tool (steering pivot pin remover) to finish the tear down. Had to unbolt column from dash mounting to get enough slack in harness. Tightened the one Torx bolt I can get to and slop seems to have gone away. When I get tool in (no one in Deming had one in stock) I'll pull the tilt knuckle & Locktite all 4 bolts. Being careful to only remove one at a time. One plastic clip on top off locking plate broke hopefully Newell will have one. Couldn't find one locally. Also have to re-solder wire on constant contact for horn unless I get a new one.

[Chester Stone]

CC, any chance of posting some photos?

[ccjohnson]

Finally got it finished today. I have an intimate knowledge of how all the intricate linkages work now. Had to disassemble & reassemble more than a couple of times to get it all working right. On initial tear down, the yellow bushing broke. Newell couldn't provide part Number nor could 2 GM dealers. I did finally find a number on it last night while cleaning it up for JB Weld. If it turns out to be a good # I'll post it. During reassembly I rerouted harness to over dash mounting for more slack if there is a next time. The real problem areas were the dimmer linkage, the mechanism that the lock cylinder operates to to get the rod linkage to actual switch to move & be in the right position and locking pin spring got bound up on another spring. I am posting most of the pics I have. Thought I took more! I definitely will on next repair project. Being sure to up load them to computer as I go so that there is no chance of trying to interpret fuzzy pics when you need a crystal clear one. The reason project lasted so long was trying to find a replacement bushing & also a couple of days real work at my make believe job. The Youtube videos were VERY helpful although not exact match to Newell, they were close enough.

[Richard]

Sorry if I missed this. Did you take a look at the u joints? were they worn or sticky? I am also on a steering slop elimination mission.

[ccjohnson]

Richard, U-joints all seemed OK tilt knuckle was good. All 4 of the torx bolts way down inside were loose as is indicated in the Youtube videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqGNc7gE3uo is a link for one of the best videos. I was able muscle the locking plate down to install the "c" clip by using a claw hammer & a splarkplug socket for a fulcrum. Be advised the "c" clip only fits ONE way. one side is thinner than the other. Best to make sure which way it goes before putting locking plate in. Our coach is a '92 and had a GM column. But no one knows for sure which one or what GM vehicles it was used in for parts references. Not sure what you have in your coach. I would definitely recommend for anyone who doesn't do this stuff really often, get hold of some exploded drawings & maybe a video or so to familiarize yourself with how things work together before starting dis-assembly.

[arcticdude]

While I've never had the chance to do a GM column in a bus; I've never seen a bad ujoint in a car or truck column. Even in previously wrecked vehicles.

[ccjohnson]

I did have the 'rag" joint between column & steering gear come apart on an F-700 truck I used to haul firewood with (paying my way through college). I was very lucky, it was at a stop light and when the light turned green I drove straight across the intersection into a vacant lot.