08-21-2021, 04:07 PM
The problem with using any commercially avail board is they will be 24 VAC, not 12 VDC.
The standoffs are likely plastic. If you can get some long nose needle nose pliers in there to squeeze the tabs it will pop right out.
If you said this, I missed it. Is 120 VAC confirmed coming into the board?
If you have 120 coming into the board and want to test what is working and what is not then do this.
Unplug the connectors for both fan motors, they will be three wire. Unplug the compressor connector, the two wire.
Put the jumpers in place at the thermostat. Turn the 120 power on. Use the voltmeter probes and test for voltage at the connectors on the board.
Jumpers at the board will be way too finicky where the control wires come into the board.
If you take the board out, all of this can be tested on the bench with continuity between the incoming voltage connections and the outgoing connectors for fans and compressor.
The standoffs are likely plastic. If you can get some long nose needle nose pliers in there to squeeze the tabs it will pop right out.
If you said this, I missed it. Is 120 VAC confirmed coming into the board?
If you have 120 coming into the board and want to test what is working and what is not then do this.
Unplug the connectors for both fan motors, they will be three wire. Unplug the compressor connector, the two wire.
Put the jumpers in place at the thermostat. Turn the 120 power on. Use the voltmeter probes and test for voltage at the connectors on the board.
Jumpers at the board will be way too finicky where the control wires come into the board.
If you take the board out, all of this can be tested on the bench with continuity between the incoming voltage connections and the outgoing connectors for fans and compressor.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)