my main sewer dump air valve was exhausing when the paddle was closed. just started. i capped off the two lines running to the cylinder and it still did it when the solenoids were energized for the down position. so, not the piston seal in the cylinder of the dump valve.
i had an old solenoid valve body so i changed it out. that is really hard to get at and my arms are like chewed up. it didnt fix it but i did use one i think had problems.
so, i just capped it off for now and will do it manually till i fix it.
so....now i have had to stuck open air valves.....makes me think i might have some moisture or gunk in my air tanks. i drained the one in the front blower bay and no water. the one inside the rear passenger side wheelwell and no water, but there was some on the small separator in the engine bay.
tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608 Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH
(This post was last modified: 06-03-2015, 05:44 PM by folivier.)
Tom: given your recent valve failures and your wondering about gunk, it may be possible that your air drier is failing to keep the desiccant corralled. I don't know how likely this is, but it could be source of "gunk" that could mess with valves.
I have a spare air dryer on board with your name on it if you need it Tom. As you know I just replaced the unit and just put this new filter on it this year
Larry, Hedy & Benny Brachfeld
2003 Coach # 646
2 Slide, DD
MINI Cooper Clubman S
MINI Clubman , John Cooper Works Rally Edition # 3 of 70
Monster 1000 Watt, Electric Skateboard
Yamaha Golf Cart painted Kawasaki Green
A Coach driveway with a shade structure and swimming pool
A Pueblo Home on the Border
i took the valve apart. i had 2 old ones as well. the passenger side dump uses the same valve and the air slide for the freezer uses the same one and i had replace it when i first got the coach.
to take it apart, i took the seals off the end, used a snap ring pliers to take the snap ring off each end. that ring held a plastic disc with an o ring on it that was the seal for each end. then the ram that slides back and forth just pushes out. it has o rings on each end and then has a rubber sleeve with ridges on it that go over ridges in the metal ram. in all 3 valve bodies i took apart, the rubber sleeve was torn on one of the ridges that would cause it not to seal.
i think they just plain wore out. the rubber on one of them was deteriorating.
you ask why....remember, my coach has 206k miles on it and was an indy car owner then indy car engine team coach. it got used quite a bit.
i have also rebuilt the air ram and puck in the bode air door. same thing.
these valve bodies are like 130 bucks, but this afternoon i lucked out and bought a new one on ebay for 22 bucks shipped.
i replaced my air dryer and it has less than 10k miles on it.
later
tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608 Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH
Hey Tom..... my curbside air dump valve just started leaking when it is in the open position. It appears to be the same issue that you had experienced, based on this thread. Can you tell me what to look for to find a rebuild kit for this? Thanks much advance! Bryan
yea, you can contact those guys with the exact part number of your valve and they can confirm, but yes that is what it looks like. very easy to fix with snap ring pliers.
you will see that rubber sleeve on that shaft will be totally ripped when you take it apart
tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608 Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH
My 120V compressor was running wide open when I got to coach yesterday. I figured I had a leak and quickly found a leaking push-on connector in the same bay as the air compressor. Once I got that fixed, I still had the problem.
In fact, my engine compressor could only make 110 lbs of air and would leak down in less than a minute with no engine. Brake gauges showed no leak in the brakes. My pocket doors and toilet still worked. So...I had big leak in 120V compressor part of air system. It was not brake related and the coach was sitting up and level so it was not air bags. Hmmmm.
A quick call to a Senior Guru for moral support and I started systematically looking for leaks. Starting at front passenger basement compartment and working back. I got the to bay in front of the aqua hot bay and I could hear a leak with my leak sniffer. Once I opened the Aquahot bay, it was obvious this was the source of the leak. Same symptoms as Tom and Bryan described -- passenger dump valve controller. I backed off the adjustment nut, and screwed in the adjusting screw all the way. This stopped the leak. I will cap the air line as soon as I get the correct fitting.
Lesson learned. 1) These dump valve controllers fail often 2) A bad leak in a 1/4 line can take all the available air 3) Systematic searching is the way to find a leak. 4) the dump valves work off of the 120V system not the 12V system. 5) Order plenty of a variety of air fittings before you need them.
