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Air filter change
#1

Been watching my Filterminder and it was at 20. At 25 it calls for a filter change. I've always changed my air filters at 30,000 miles as these diesels kick up a lot of dust. I have also heard of some air filters degrading and breaking up & parts going through the turbo. I was anxious to do an autopsy on my air filter after 30,000 miles. The inlet side of the filter was very dirty. The outlet side was clean. Using a light I could see no light through the filter. I saw no degrading of the paper element which was a positive. It is my opinion that 30,000 miles is about right for changing the air filter.

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
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#2

Thanks for the "heads up" I'll have to get a look at the Vacuum Gauge and see how ours is doing.

Steve & Patti, Bonnie and Tucker
1982 Newell 38' Classic, DD 6V92
cocktails for as many will fit in the site, dinner for as many can sit at the pick-nick table and sleeps 2 since I fixed the couch
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#3

those filterminders are just an indicator. and realistically not a very good one. i would go by usage and mileage and inspection like steve bare is saying.

my two cents worth and i am sticking to it.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#4

I agree with Tom that I use the FilterMinder as an indicator tool only.

I received a request, so I'll post the process for changing the air filter. This applies to Series 60 coaches after about '95--pre '96 had a different set up.

I buy 95% of my filters online from http://www.filterbarn.com/ Free shipping by FedEx if you order over $100. The air filter I order is a Fram CA 7230 and are in stock for $89.28.

The process is tedious, but not hard. First the chrome pipe that goes from the driver's side to passenger side must be removed. Both sides are double clamped. Loosen all four clamps using a 7/16" deep socket. Once loose, work the pipe forward & back and that will break the "seal". Remove and cover the clamps so dirt can't get in. Your air filter is clamped in behind the left taillights. There is a rubber boot from the air filter outlet to the large chrome pipe on the left side of engine. Loosen both clamps at the air filter outlet and work boot down by twisting. There is a pipe going from the outside air inlet, on the right side of coach, to the air filter inlet that are connected with rubber boots. On the air filter inlet side loosen both clamps. On the air inlet side(right) you only have to loosen the clamp that holds the piping. Twist the piping and work the air filter boot back and forth to break the "seal". Tip: Loosen all clamps to the point where you can spin them on the boots. Now you can work the piping to the right enough to clear the air filter. Remove the piping with the air filter rubber boot down and to the left---the air inlet boot remains in place. Now you are ready to remove the air filter. There are two clamps. Loosen them. Now remove the air filter by twisting it so the filter outlet faces the taillights. Slide toward the right and down. Tight, but it comes out---Watch that you don't break the a/c pressure sensor. Clean everything up & replace in reverse.

Took me 2 hours, but I cleaned & polished every thing thoroughly. If any thing is unclear feel free to contact me.

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
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#5

                        Here are some photos to go with my post.

#6 The chrome air pipe from the air cooler that needs to be removed
#1 Rubber boot on air filter outlet
#2 Air filter that is behind left taillights with inlet & outlet rubber boots
#3 Outlet boot connected to air filter
#4 Rubber boot at air inlet
#5 Air filter, on floor, as it lays in coach--outlet on bottom, inlet to the right

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
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#6

Tom, I agree but I changed it when we first got the coach and have only about 17K on it since.

Steve & Patti, Bonnie and Tucker
1982 Newell 38' Classic, DD 6V92
cocktails for as many will fit in the site, dinner for as many can sit at the pick-nick table and sleeps 2 since I fixed the couch
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#7

steve w. i agree with you.

there is nothing magical about air filters. they are dirty or they are not. all of the indicators and mileage numbers etc are just ways to be reminded of when to change it and that it is likely dirty based on the experience of the manufacturer and it requires changing. i personally dont believe that you change an air filter like this on time alone and not use. i guess if the filter was 15 years old it could be deterioating, but it is dirt that it filters and being plugged is the reason for changing it before it sucks dirt into your turbo and engine. ya dont want that so you want to err on the side of caution, but not throw money away either.

common sense prevails here.

steve ward monitors his use and knows when to change it by knowing his usage, mileage and the filter minder.

i assure you if for some reason he spent a lot of time driving on dirty dusty roads that he would check it more and change it more.

my two cents worth and i am sticking to it (wallys line)

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#8

The way I understand the filterminders is it is basically a vacuum gauge and shows the increased vacuum as the filter "fills up". This should give you an indication of when to change the filter. The dirtier the filter is the less air it allows to pass making the vacuum increase. Clear as mud?

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 
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#9

yea, except mine shows more usage than there really is on it. i can reset it and it goes back up fairly high even when the filter was new. so i discount it a bit.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#10

My experience is the same as Tom's. I change the air filter & first trip it will record 15 or slightly above. It was only 20 when I changed it after 30,000 miles. For me the FilterMinder is only an indicator.

Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
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