I didn't mean to hi-jack Alie and Jons thread on dash air but since it hit a "hot spot" with me I'll start a new thread. Dave Holmes went through my basement air units a couple years ago and it seems that each of them will blow cold. Also it appears that they are all dripping water from the evaporators. I think the problem is that they don't duct enough air to the front where all the solar gain is. Also, the thermostats for the two midship units are right across the aisle from each other in the kitchen area. You can see one of them on the wall to the left of the door in this pic. The other is to the right and the third is just to the back of the chair in the foreground. The salon area evaporator unit is in the cupboard just under where you see the coffee maker. I ducted that unit to the front to just above the passenger seat. I'm considering ducting the driver side unit (which now supplies the bunk and outlets just above refrigerator ) to the front and moving the thermostat (now located in the bunk) to the wall just aft of the side window.
Before I do all that I'll try to get Dave back to check the pressures....I should learn how to do that my self.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
Generally, thermostats are located reasonably close to the air return. There are times that the temperature at that point isn't representative so moving the thermostat can be worthwhile. My vents discharge up behind the valence panels on both sides back by the kitchen but I do get pretty good circulation up front.
I got the Newell in the shop today and discovered that one A/C is not blowing cold. It sounds like the compressor and the evaporator are running and there seems to be a bit of pressure at the Schrader valves when I "press" them briefly. I tried to call Dave Holmes but only got his VM. Can the pressures be checked with a standard auto A/C gauge set? I do have one of those.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
Back in the day when I owned Jons coach I moved the thermostat for the front basement a/c to the front. That helped keep the front cooler. I think what was happening is the a/c in the kitchen was blowing on that thermostat and causing it to turn the front a/c off prematurely.
Once you get yours working again you might want to try moving yours.
It depends which fitting you have on the end of the hoses. By design the 134a auto fittings are not interchangeable with other AC fittings. If your hoses have standard 1/4 flare then you are good to go. Make sure you hook low side to low side and hi to hi, or you'll damage the low side gauge.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
During my air conditioning sojourn I lost Freon following a test of the system pressures by the tech. The system was holding Freon just fine until he connected and then removed his gauges. At that point the low side schrader valve started leaking. When the gauges are removed it might be wise to check for leaks at both access ports.
My initial diagnosis is that my A/C is low on refrigerant. Dave Holmes is trying to retire and no longer has r22. I'm thinking of buying a tank of it myself. 10# is $200 and a 30# tank is $400 on Amazon. Any thoughts? I don't see a downside to adding a tank of r22 to the 3 cases of r12 I squirreled away for my old T/A 20 years ago.
Also, any thoughts on adding a sealer to the system? I've never been keen on radiator stop-leaks etc but not sure about the effectiveness of sealers for A/C.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
(This post was last modified: 08-01-2015, 06:05 PM by HoosierDaddy.)
I am not a fan of sealers. They are designed to stop things up. Hmmmm, just a wee bit of moisture in the system and you could stop up the capillary tubes or TXV valve depending on which one you have.
Do a little on line research on how to charge using superheat or supercool. It's much more accurate than just using the gauges.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Coach number 490 98
Just flushed entire system new dryer etc and Newell Said to fill with 4 oz of oil and 4 lbs of freon. Did so and compressor would not come on got up to 6.1 pounds and while filling with freon clutch/ compressor comes on and cools. As soon as you stop putting freon in the low pressure drops to below 30 and the low pressure switch shuts of the clutch. This is a 45 foot MH. Iit is acting as it is low on freon. Does anyone have any info on how many pounds of freon max or any inputs as to why it is working like this?
)
