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If you can rotate the wheels to give more access to get some sort of puller in there, it may help with the approach I use. I use a puller or pickle fork on the joint, then I hit the outside of the taper with a cutting torch. The idea of using a cutting torch or rosebud is to heat the outside of the fit BEFORE the inside taper gets hot and expands. This approach DOES NOT work with a propane or MAPP torch. You have to put a lot of heat on it fast. I find the joint easily pops apart this way.

BTW, the situation you found with the rod ends twisted was intentional. It is an old trick to reduce play in tie rod joints. I suppose it can be overdone to the point of binding as you discovered.

If you are looking to replace the drag link ends, my next comment is moot. If you just want to free the pinch joint so you can rotate the drag link, then you might shift your focus to the pinch joint. Heat as described above may allow the threads to turn.

I was able to get it loose. I do not have a torch so I hit it with the mapp gas torch and then hit the bolt with freeze off. A couple of whacks to the arm and it popped off. 
I guess I could see that maybe adding some stiffness to the joints, but I am finding that most of the tapers are loose. The play at the pitman arm was because the bolt was loose. I ended up having to really tighten it to get to the next notch on the castle nut. I am also finding that there is the same loose bolts on the cross shaft between the two bell cranks. I already turned one of the castle nuts a full turn. So I am going to tighten everything up for now and then see how it drives. I am putting replacement of all these joints in the future service plans.