05-03-2017, 02:05 PM
It was my turn to do this. The old radiator had severly corroded fins, and I was starting to notice the engine temps climb. It was running 196 to 205 which is OK but higher than I remembered.
I sourced the radiator and CAC from Atlas in Corpus Christie. I won't bore you with the tight confined work of getting in and out but I did really learn some things on my first go round that may help someone in the future.
Where is the radiator tag? Go to the outside door for the radiator, there is an aluminum trim piece riveted at the left side of the radiator. That trim piece has to be removed to see the tag.
The best thing I did, on day two of the removal by the way, was construct a four foot long two foot wide table and exacly the same height as the engine bay floor. Having that table really gives you somewhere to stand or lay while you shimmy into the bay.
If you remove the bolt in the center of the fan, you can gently tap the fan off the fan motor. It is a taper fit, not a threaded fit. You can't unthread it. Trust me on this one.
The bolts holding the bottom fan shroud to the radiator frame were corroded. Some I could get enough hold on to break the head but two were being ugly. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to gind away the nut from inside the shroud.
Similar thing for the bolts that penetrate the floor holding the fan motor support. I could get an angle grinder in there to cut the bolts off.
Take the bottom shroud off first. And install it last.
I talked to several folks who had done this and they told me the rad/cac comes out bolted together. All I can say is that was NEVER going to happen on my coach without a big cutting torch. So I took them out separately. CAC first, and then slid the radiator out on the aforementioned table.
So obviously it had to go back in in two pieces. CAC first and slide the radiator under it. That's when I discovered that there was not only a gap between the two, but an unevern gap at that. Not wanting to stress the CAC and make it hold the weight of the radiator, I used the unused 1/4-20 holes in the bottom of the radiator frame for jacking screws. By using the screws I was able to lift the radiator the 1/8 inch or so at one end to perfectly fit to the CAC.
Don't even thing about this with one of those radiator hose removal tools. They look like a long pick but the end is hooked so you can get it under the hose and break it loose from the connection. The tool and slightly soapy water also help when putting the hoses back on.
Per Tom's suggestion, I used new silicone hose and new constant tension radiator clamps on the reinstall.
Do replace the flex hose on the exhaust while you're in there. You will never have easier access. I would say mine needed it.
By lifting one end of the radiator at a time onto the table, I made this a one man job. The table is the key.
A forty mile test drive on a 90 degree day showed the temp to go to 196 when the tstats open and quickly drop to 192 so I definitely can see an improvement.
I sourced the radiator and CAC from Atlas in Corpus Christie. I won't bore you with the tight confined work of getting in and out but I did really learn some things on my first go round that may help someone in the future.
Where is the radiator tag? Go to the outside door for the radiator, there is an aluminum trim piece riveted at the left side of the radiator. That trim piece has to be removed to see the tag.
The best thing I did, on day two of the removal by the way, was construct a four foot long two foot wide table and exacly the same height as the engine bay floor. Having that table really gives you somewhere to stand or lay while you shimmy into the bay.
If you remove the bolt in the center of the fan, you can gently tap the fan off the fan motor. It is a taper fit, not a threaded fit. You can't unthread it. Trust me on this one.
The bolts holding the bottom fan shroud to the radiator frame were corroded. Some I could get enough hold on to break the head but two were being ugly. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to gind away the nut from inside the shroud.
Similar thing for the bolts that penetrate the floor holding the fan motor support. I could get an angle grinder in there to cut the bolts off.
Take the bottom shroud off first. And install it last.
I talked to several folks who had done this and they told me the rad/cac comes out bolted together. All I can say is that was NEVER going to happen on my coach without a big cutting torch. So I took them out separately. CAC first, and then slid the radiator out on the aforementioned table.
So obviously it had to go back in in two pieces. CAC first and slide the radiator under it. That's when I discovered that there was not only a gap between the two, but an unevern gap at that. Not wanting to stress the CAC and make it hold the weight of the radiator, I used the unused 1/4-20 holes in the bottom of the radiator frame for jacking screws. By using the screws I was able to lift the radiator the 1/8 inch or so at one end to perfectly fit to the CAC.
Don't even thing about this with one of those radiator hose removal tools. They look like a long pick but the end is hooked so you can get it under the hose and break it loose from the connection. The tool and slightly soapy water also help when putting the hoses back on.
Per Tom's suggestion, I used new silicone hose and new constant tension radiator clamps on the reinstall.
Do replace the flex hose on the exhaust while you're in there. You will never have easier access. I would say mine needed it.
By lifting one end of the radiator at a time onto the table, I made this a one man job. The table is the key.
A forty mile test drive on a 90 degree day showed the temp to go to 196 when the tstats open and quickly drop to 192 so I definitely can see an improvement.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)