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Auxiliary Air Water Separator
#41

Richard, I found two in the McMaster-Carr web site that may work.  Posted are photos of the two.  If one of these is what you installed, then I will order it.  If yours is not shown, then please let us know what you have when you get some free time back at your coach to check into it.  Thanks
       

2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
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#42

If I am reading this thread correctly....

Here is the valve that my setup uses to unload the compressor. It is 120V.

It is wired to the pressure switch on the compressor.

bill


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Bill Johnson
Birmingham, Alabama
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#43

Chester,

The first one. The check valve needs to be installed downstream of the solenoid valve.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#44

Richard, this photo shows my existing 12v water discharge valve - Figure "A".  I assume the 120v McMaster-Carr valve will be plumbed in the same place at the bottom of the sight bowl.  Electrical connections will go to the air pressure cutoff - Figure "B".  In my setup, the air check valve is shown as Figure "C", and I assume this is the downstream check valve you are referring to.  Please advise if my assumptions are not correct.  Thanks
   

2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
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#45

Chester,

It's your coach and you should do as you like, but i am mystified with your desire to change from 12VDC to 120VAC.

Code and safety wise you can do about whatever you like with 12vdc. It is easy to insulate and care for. Look at all the 120VAC wiring in your coach. It is almost always double insulated or in a conduit or tube. Touching a 12v conductor doesn't even hurt :-)

My little 12vdc solenoid works perfectly. Why change it?

Russ

Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530  ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
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#46

Chester,

I can't make out what is what from the picture. Which lines are air in, air out? The check valve will need to be downstream from the separator because the valve is a one way normally open. Meaning that the bowl will be completely free to vent anytime there is not power to the solenoid. The check valve is there to prevent all the system pressure from exiting through the separator.

Assuming the heavy hose coming out of the bottom of the separator is a drain hose, then yes the solenoid can be plumbed as a substitute.

Russ, you make a good point.

Mine is plumbed with 120 because it does not have relay. My compressor is located in the gen bay along with the solenoid valve, so the 120 powering the compressor is very close by and easy to access.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#47

Richard, yes, the hose coming out of the bottom is the drain hose. Air from the compressor comes in through the small hose in the upper right corner of the photo, enters into the water separator bowl through the combination water separator and check valve Figure "C". I have ordered another 120 to 12 volt relay and if it works I will stay with what I have. But if not, then I will probably convert to a McMaster-Carr 120 volt valve. Thanks for your help and Russ I recognize the added danger using 120 volts.

2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
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