12-24-2017, 06:19 AM
I would abandon the battery charger, invertor , contact switches etc. in favor of an invertor/charger. It will make your life simpler. Currently I have a xantrex 458. New they cost $1000. I found this one at an RV salvage store in Indiana for $450. It was still in box. I had a problem with it after 1 year and xantrex warranted it. There are other invertor/chargers available, some much more sophisticated but to charge my AGM's and run my fridge and TV this one works great. My 1993 Newell does not have LP so running the fridge on battery is a necessity. If you have LP as an option for the fridge You may not need invertor/charger.
I understand why you might want to figure your current system out and I respect that. I probably would as well. I'm thinking the contactors call for current from the invertor when the land line or generator current is unavailable. You can use a meter or a simple 120/240 volt test light to trace the current . Start with the main breaker box and follow it to the appliance using the different configurations ie. with land power on or off etc. You can check a breaker with this method. Rubber gloves might be a good idea. When I have had a breaker malfunction (rare) it will heat up and shut off or not turn on initially. Any Newell I am familiar with provides a 12 volt air compressor to sub for the 120 volt when 120 is unavailable.
As a disclaimer , my knowledge (or lack there-of) comes only from 40 years of trial and (mostly) error. Hopefully there is an electrical engineer who can chime in here as well.
I understand why you might want to figure your current system out and I respect that. I probably would as well. I'm thinking the contactors call for current from the invertor when the land line or generator current is unavailable. You can use a meter or a simple 120/240 volt test light to trace the current . Start with the main breaker box and follow it to the appliance using the different configurations ie. with land power on or off etc. You can check a breaker with this method. Rubber gloves might be a good idea. When I have had a breaker malfunction (rare) it will heat up and shut off or not turn on initially. Any Newell I am familiar with provides a 12 volt air compressor to sub for the 120 volt when 120 is unavailable.
As a disclaimer , my knowledge (or lack there-of) comes only from 40 years of trial and (mostly) error. Hopefully there is an electrical engineer who can chime in here as well.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.