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Leece Neville Alternator
Our '92 merges with the ignition "on". I have learned that if the alternator is taking a lot of amps for an extended period on time when starting the days travels, there is a problem with the Xantrex charger. We usually keep batteries merged with generator running when dry camping for the night. When Xantrex is working properly, very little amperage to get up & running at the start of travels.
As an addem , our MCI has a 24 volt 400 amp oil cooled alt. We use a samlex inverter to power a roof air, fridge and sometimes an appliance like microwave or coffee maker while enroute. I had the alt rebuilt when we swapped out the engine. Once we overloaded the inverter and it shut down but only once and the house batteries were low at the time. These oil cooled alt. seem pretty tough.
Mark and Marian

1987 #125
Pace 28' stacker

Gray SK  Maricopa AZ
Our '82 uses a Toggle Switch at the Dash to select the Battery Bank that Energizes the Merge Solenoid. I like the fact that the House Batteries are charged through the inverter & the engine Batteries are charged with the alternator keeping the banks separated unless I choose different.
When my alternator went bad I went to the Port Of Long Beach, CA and found a rebuilder that had all of the correct parts for these older alternators. The 6V92 & 8V92 of this era are Marine Grade or Military Grade (just to help others next time).
Steve & Patti, Bonnie and Tucker
1982 Newell 38' Classic, DD 6V92
cocktails for as many will fit in the site, dinner for as many can sit at the pick-nick table and sleeps 2 since I fixed the couch
Alternator saga restarted .... I have spent the past months replacing /refurbishing exhaust and intake systems, etc . Installed two new Deka 8D batteries and started the engine this morning.  With engine idling at 500 rpm the dash ammeter is negative.  Bring rpm up to about 800 and the ammeter comes alive . At idle the measured voltage is 12.7 +- at battery and at alternator post . I really expected this rebuilt and upgraded alternator to charge at idle , but maybe I'm expecting too much . What do other classic owners see at idle ?
Thanks , Chris
1986 #89
VIN 007
Idle at 500 seems too low. Low RPM allows excess unburned diesel to wash oil from the cylinders.
2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
500 RPM's seems quite low.....our series 92 idles at about 700-800. Even then I have to increase the RPM's slightly to get the AMP meter to go positive, and then it stays there after I let off the gas.

Clarke and Elaine Hockwald
1982 Newell Classic, 36', 6V92 TA
2001 VW Beetle Turbo
Cannondale Tandem
Cannondale F600
Cannondale Bad Boy
Intense 5.5 MTB
Had our Leece Neville rebuilt this summer by Tri-State Truck and RV in Chattanooga.  Great service. Very reasonable. Takes a tiny personto r and r that thing. Our amp meter is problematic.  No input under 1000 rpm. Alternator keeps the batteries charged just fine. I do have a rattle caused by the old bakelite connectors used on the alternator. Had been told by Tri-State before the rebuild that they had no work around for that issue. Sad
Guy & Sue
1984 Classic 40' #59
Input from you all is greatly appreciated . I am not sure if the dash tach can be trusted , engine sounds pretty busy at indicated 500 rpm . Since the last post I had Sharon watch the digital voltmeter connected to one of the batteries while I started the engine and ran it up to 700 and 1000 rpm . When first started the voltage went above 13 initially , then back to 12.9 ( I think the rpm settles down after a minute or so) . After warm up I brought the rpm up to 7 or 800 rpm and the voltage came up to 13.5 . I think the regulator has a fairly high threshold . As mentioned before , the alternator has been upgraded to 220 amp by ASC in Little Rock , basically a new alternator using my direct drive front housing . The regulator is a Leece Neville p/n 12200 which is known to have a high starting point. In any case , I believe the alternator will keep the batteries charged at highway speeds .
I accessed the alternator by removing the bed platform which must have been removed previously . This also allowed me to clean things up as well as possible and replace insulation , turbo heat shield , etc. I think the alternator can be removed from the side now that I know how it bolts on . Not sure I saw any bakelite parts to rattle , there is a phenolic piece linking the couplers . I devoutly hope that the alternator is on for good now !
Thanks for your help !
1986 #89
VIN 007

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