[jdkskyking]

Sorry if I’m beating a dead horse but I have no experience with a tag. 

Three position switch. 

Normal driving in the center position?

I understand the options to support weight or shift the weight to the drive axel. 

I’ve already had three issues where I’m dragging the skids because of what I felt like was a minimal incline. 

Twice into my driveway and once into our subdivision. 

In a case where I might drag the rear end should I place the tag switch to support weight?

If so, and I need to raise the suspension to get into my driveway, should I leave the tag in the support weight position and will the tag bags also inflate?

And speaking of skids... Mike M mentioned a rear roller mod? The skids have seen thier fair share of action along with the bottom of the oil pan. 

Thanks. JK

[folivier]

If you just need a bit more clearance to enter a driveway I would press & hold the raise button on the HWH leveling panel. That will raise the coach while in travel mode for more clearance. Once you release the button it will return to normal travel height.
I don't think the tag axle switch will do anything to raise the coach.

[rheavn]

Yes.  Driving mode is with the switch in the middle position.  Owned my coach nine years & never moved the switch off the middle position.

If you are dragging the rear skids, I would check ride height.  12" at 2" square tubing just ahead of drive tires in rear and just behind front tires in front.  You don't want that oil pan dragging.

I have a friend who has rear rollers mounted to trailer hitch.  He swears by them.

[Chester Stone]

I agree with Forest. Use the HWH control panel in manual mode and raise the coach to its maximum height, which is about another four inches. However, I do not think that merely taking your finger off of the raise button with return to normal height. If I recall correctly, you have to punch the travel button twice for it to return to normal. Going down the road at maximum height should be very slow and the ride will be very rough.

[jdkskyking]

Thank you!!

I need to investigate the rollers. Didn’t think about an attachment do trailer hitch. 

I need to add metal back to skids.

[Fulltiming]

Newell sit low enough that they drag easily on driveway inclines. They can also drag high center. The solution to both of those is the use of the raise button as Forest discussed. The switch to remove weight from the tag is really only needed in wet grass where you are spinning the drive tires and need more weight on them. There is an argument to be made for taking the pressure off the tag axle when doing very slow very tight turns but I have not found it made that much difference so I rarely use mine. The position to temporarily add weight to the tag can be used to get the drive axle weight down for the inroad scales at some toll roads but I just avoid those roads.

If you add a roller to the hitch, make sure the hitch is beefy and well secured after all these years. You can put a lot of weight on that roller when it attempts to lift the rear of the coach and Newells vary considerably in which hitch receiver was installed. I have seen 5,000 pound hitches, 10,000 pound hitches and 17,000 pound hitches on Newells.

[jdkskyking]

HI’ve been thinking about some kind of a bolt in skid that used the existing skid plates. Replaceable so to speak.

[encantotom]

we have all been through this thought process. my 02 has the 2 1/2" super big hitch and at ride height it is only like 6 inches off the ground. wheels would hit on mine all the time if they were there. we just learn to be super careful and raise it up if concerned, remember to let it back down.

tom

[ccjohnson]

The skids in the back seem to work pretty good on ours. There is no sound as upsetting as the grinding noise of a mid coach high-centering on a driveway hump. We have been very lucky so far and now take the time to stop & raise if in any doubt.

[jdkskyking]

In an effort to prevent the dragging of the rear... I backed in...