11-05-2019, 07:38 PM
Tom,
A cut and paste from my notes:
The original seal ( Seal Master ) was supplied in a continuous length, much like a complete inner tube would be. Air enters the seal through a hose on the back side of the seal. That hose goes down through the coach and exits at the top of the fender well. The point of exit is more toward the rear of the slide, than the front.
Having cleaned out the track where the original seal was held in place with clear silicone and made sure the caulked seal between the track and the coach wall is in tact, one is ready to install the new seal.
It will be necessary to make a termination point for pinching the seal. This is done by drilling a 9/16” hole in the center of the track and at the center of the bottom on the slide. Into this hole is placed a threaded insert which is held in place by a special device that expands its OD and locks it in place.
Since air will be supplied to the new seal through the same hole as was previously used, it will be necessary to start the seal at that point and work counter clockwise around, going up the right side, over the top, down the left side, and stopped near the center of the bottom where the cylinder pushes the room in and out. Allow and extra 3” beyond this point and cut the seal. Now start at the air entry point again and go left this time, stopped at the center and cutting the seal 3” beyond that point. Carefully cut the rib from the back of the seal sufficient to allow the seal to be folded upon itself. Now apply adhesive to the open ends of the seal, fold them back and place under the aluminum splicing plate. Tighten the splice plate down and allow time for the adhesive to cure.
Connect the hose to the existing fitting in the fender well and replace limit switch stops and mechanical stops after the room has been slightly extended.
Turn air on at the solenoid valve and check for leaks.
Russ
A cut and paste from my notes:
The original seal ( Seal Master ) was supplied in a continuous length, much like a complete inner tube would be. Air enters the seal through a hose on the back side of the seal. That hose goes down through the coach and exits at the top of the fender well. The point of exit is more toward the rear of the slide, than the front.
Having cleaned out the track where the original seal was held in place with clear silicone and made sure the caulked seal between the track and the coach wall is in tact, one is ready to install the new seal.
It will be necessary to make a termination point for pinching the seal. This is done by drilling a 9/16” hole in the center of the track and at the center of the bottom on the slide. Into this hole is placed a threaded insert which is held in place by a special device that expands its OD and locks it in place.
Since air will be supplied to the new seal through the same hole as was previously used, it will be necessary to start the seal at that point and work counter clockwise around, going up the right side, over the top, down the left side, and stopped near the center of the bottom where the cylinder pushes the room in and out. Allow and extra 3” beyond this point and cut the seal. Now start at the air entry point again and go left this time, stopped at the center and cutting the seal 3” beyond that point. Carefully cut the rib from the back of the seal sufficient to allow the seal to be folded upon itself. Now apply adhesive to the open ends of the seal, fold them back and place under the aluminum splicing plate. Tighten the splice plate down and allow time for the adhesive to cure.
Connect the hose to the existing fitting in the fender well and replace limit switch stops and mechanical stops after the room has been slightly extended.
Turn air on at the solenoid valve and check for leaks.
Russ
Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530 ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004