05-01-2019, 11:45 AM
Gurus,
I followed the link that Steve posted. Zoro shipped quickly for around $125 plus 2 day shipping. (I ordered two).
I had to remove the water faucet stand to be able to access the solenoid valve. Here is what I did...
0) Turn off the 120V compressor and dump the air in the system.
1) Use green tape to mark the two air lines that go to the the Dump valve.
2) Use green tape to mark the coils.
3) Unscrew the knurled screws that retain the coils and the coils. (Move them out of the way)
4) Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the nut holding the top 1/4” air line to top of the valve.
5) Remove the screws that hold the valve to wall.
At this point the valve can be moved so that you access it easier.
6) remove the bottom air lines that go to the dump valve
At this point the valve can be moved to your workbench.
Move the brass fittings from the old valve to the new valve.
NOTE: Don’t use teflon tape on air operated systems. It is much better to use joint compound. The reason is that bits of the tape can come loose and travel in air system and block small orifices.
Once you have all the fittings reassembled, follow the steps in the reverse order.
All of this worked exactly the way that you would think. Super straight forward and easy. (Well it was a little awkward to remove the old valve). Here is where I got stuck.
I put it all back together, and turned the 120V compressor back on. No air in the system. A quick check of the pressure gauge by the engine confirmed no air. Hmmmm
I left the compressor on for a while, but no air pressure built up. Finally, I cranked the engine and put on high idle. It quickly built up pressure and then held pressure. I turned off the engine. (The dump valve worked properly). It seems as though the 120V compressor was making air, but it took a long time to fill the system back up. Maybe there was a check valve stuck? In any case, cranking the engine cleared the problem and all is good now.
I followed the link that Steve posted. Zoro shipped quickly for around $125 plus 2 day shipping. (I ordered two).
I had to remove the water faucet stand to be able to access the solenoid valve. Here is what I did...
0) Turn off the 120V compressor and dump the air in the system.
1) Use green tape to mark the two air lines that go to the the Dump valve.
2) Use green tape to mark the coils.
3) Unscrew the knurled screws that retain the coils and the coils. (Move them out of the way)
4) Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the nut holding the top 1/4” air line to top of the valve.
5) Remove the screws that hold the valve to wall.
At this point the valve can be moved so that you access it easier.
6) remove the bottom air lines that go to the dump valve
At this point the valve can be moved to your workbench.
Move the brass fittings from the old valve to the new valve.
NOTE: Don’t use teflon tape on air operated systems. It is much better to use joint compound. The reason is that bits of the tape can come loose and travel in air system and block small orifices.
Once you have all the fittings reassembled, follow the steps in the reverse order.
All of this worked exactly the way that you would think. Super straight forward and easy. (Well it was a little awkward to remove the old valve). Here is where I got stuck.
I put it all back together, and turned the 120V compressor back on. No air in the system. A quick check of the pressure gauge by the engine confirmed no air. Hmmmm
I left the compressor on for a while, but no air pressure built up. Finally, I cranked the engine and put on high idle. It quickly built up pressure and then held pressure. I turned off the engine. (The dump valve worked properly). It seems as though the 120V compressor was making air, but it took a long time to fill the system back up. Maybe there was a check valve stuck? In any case, cranking the engine cleared the problem and all is good now.
Bill Johnson
Birmingham, Alabama