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Dryer quit heating

I have a Kenmore stacked washer/dryer.  Dryer drum would turn, but not heat.

Part of why we want a Newell is for the fit & finish, but removal is a little challenging because of how tightly it is fit.  There is a piece that holds the top of the dryer that is held in place by three screws that are removed from the top.  That piece could now be moved up and out of the way.  A second piece halfway down is held in with two screws on each side--remove it.  The last piece that needs to be removed fits in between the washer & flooring and is held in with three screws--remove it.

Tip:  There is a 1 1/2 space between the stainless steel washer pan and the flooring where that last piece that held the unit in was removed.  Fill the space with wood so the washer feet don't get stuck in the gap.

Now remove both bottom washer doors.  Remove the doors by unscrewing the hinges from the mount.  By removing the doors & hinges together you will give yourself an extra 1/8" that you will appreciate upon removal & installation.  Then I removed the top door & hinge on the front of coach side.  This door has to be removed to be able to move the unit forward in the coach to give yourself room to repair.

Now we need to unhook the unit from water, drain, dryer vent & electric plug.  FIRST SHUT OFF THE WATER PUMP AND CLOSE BOTH WATER BAY VALVES TO THE WASHER.  All connections are accessed by removing two screws that hold on the sheet metal panel that runs on a 45 between the washer & dryer.  Unplug.  Unscrew dryer vent hose clamp and compress the metal vent hose back toward exterior wall--leave hooked up to exhaust port.  Now remove drain hose from the "T".  Lastly remove the washer supply hoses from back of washer--cold on top, hot on bottom.

Now it is time to remove the unit from the cabinet.  This is when the fit and finish will no longer be your friend.  You will only have about 1/8" on each side at most.  Hinge washer door up in the open position.  Now grab the washer tub and start moving the unit out by moving it side to side as you pull forward.  Oh yea, now you have to lift the front of unit as you move it out so the washer legs clear the edge of the stainless steel washer pan.  Keep working it out and as you do you will have the w/d case to help you.  You will have to  lift the back of the unit so the rear legs clear the lip of the ss washer pan.  Now you have the appliance out of its cabinet and you have no room in front an I get it by the refrigerator door handles.  Continued using a side to side movement as I moved it toward the front of the coach & into the kitchen.  No more room as you move in the hallway than you had in the unit's cabinet.  Once in the kitchen I got the unit to where I could get behind it.  I am now about 2 hours into the job.

Not knowing why the dryer would not heat I removed the rear panel's approx 8 screws.  The dryer has a fuse and I tested it for continuity.  There was none.  Fuse, not an automotive type, was bad, but I didn't know why.  I decided to change the heating element at the same time.  I was able to order both from Amazon.

Fuse:   3399849 Dryer Thermal Fuse Replacement For Inglis,Admiral,Kenmore,Whirlpool

Heating element:   [/url][url=]Whirlpool, Kenmore WP279843 Heating Element 279843 AP6007492, PS11740608[/urlze][/color] 

Replacing the fuse was simply removing one screw and two wires.  Replacing the heating element required removing two screws that held on a thermostat, removing the two supply wires and two screws that held the unit in.  Replacement of each was just reversing removal steps.  Replace rear panel of unit.  About 30 minutes with a little cleaning.

I cleaned up the empty appliance cabinet and boy did that stainless steel pan polish up nice...........................................Just kidding! Rolleyes

Now you are ready to move the unit back into its cabinet.  Just as tight as it was upon removal.  I had to line up the unit with the cabinet and began moving side to side slightly as I moved it back.  I had to get a pry tool and piece of wood to raise the rear of unit as I moved it back to clear the ss pan lip.  Continued moving it back.  Now I could stand in front, raise the front of unit with my pry tool & my foot so I could get the front legs to clear the ss pan lip.  Once in the pan the unit slid back into place.  Remove the wood you used to fill the gap between the flooring and the waoring and the washer pan.  Hook up the washer hoses, drain hose, dryer vent and plug dryer in to outlet.  TURN THE WASHER WATER VALVES IN WATER BAY BACK ON & CHECK FOR LEAKS!  Replace three boards that hold unit in.  Replace the sheet metal cover that runs on a 45 between the dryer & washer.  Reinstall the three doors.  Lastly I took the Wash & Wax All to clean up the blood I left on the unit & cabinet.  About 2 hours for the re installation.

Suzy is back in business & has a smile again! Big Grin

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Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531

Hi Steve,

Wow, that is a lot more work than necessary.  Richard had my fuse replaced in less time than it took you to write it up - well I may be exaggerating just a little :-)


Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530  ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004

Never know what you'll find when you start digging around....
Great job and writeup Steve!

Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
PO 1999 Foretravel 36'
1998 Newell 45' #486 

1993 Newell 39' #337 

Great writeup, and as Paul Harvey used to say, for the rest of the story. Russ's combo unit would NOT come out of the cabinet because he has a different shower / tub opposing the unit than most of us. The only way his unit is coming completely out is with a sawzall. We had no choice but to shimmy through the opening. I recommend Steve's technique if at all possible.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )

I have a mouse issue and suspect they chewed through the PEX line behind the washer. Woke up today to a substantial drip in the water bay from the hole in the floor where the lines go up to the washer. Shut off the two valves for the washer feed and the leak stopped so I know one of those lines is the issue.

Now I have to figure out how to get this thing out. It looks like some screws are hidden behind other panels and Newell may have revised something between my 1996 and Steve's 99

I will say I am envious of how clean his is back there. 27 years has not been so kind to mine...especially with the mouse poop I will have to clean up

UPDATE: It appears I just have very bad luck. The water leak was just the washer hose gasket gone bad with no correlation to the mice. Pulled the unit out to find rotted wood from a prior leak. Now we are fixing some of that before putting the kit back in with new hoses.

1996 Newell #402
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