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Entry Door Skin Re-bonding
My entry door's skin had de-laminated which caused the door to drag on the sill.  It was twisted enough that the top aft corner stuck out past the drip rail.....approximately an inch.  I had been putting it off as I dreaded the VHB tape removal process.

I picked up some 3M spray adhesive remover and a 3M adhesive eraser wheel.  Removed the door and set it up on the work bench....known to be flat and level.  After getting the outer skin removed from the door I cut down the thickness of the VHB as much as I could with a razor window scraper (the wide bladed, long handle variety).  Using the wheel (in an electric drill) and adhesive remover I was able to clean the VHB from the door and skin at at rate of 12 linear inches per minute....yeah!

The interior skin is still intact so I left it alone, but did check squareness and twist.  Corrected a slight warp with a shim under the low corner.  Roughed up the bond line with a coarse grit sanding disc cleaned with solvent.   Used Sika 252 as I had on hand and the specs (shear, tensil and elongation) are better than the VHB.  Clamped the skin with light pressure and caul blocks so as not to squeeze out to much adhesive.

Happy to report the door is hung is square in the opening and pretty much fits flush all the way around.  Closes with a thunk and opens so easy.....wife is happy life is good:-)
Steve & Doris Denton
45' Newell #525, Bath & Half
2014 Honda CRV Toad
very nice work. i like the look of your shop too

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

Thanks Tom, when you meet my Wife you will know that there is a DMZ line between her parking spot and my shop.  Never cross the DMZ with anything shop related....except the broom:-)
Steve & Doris Denton
45' Newell #525, Bath & Half
2014 Honda CRV Toad
This is a good opportunity to add a bit of insight to this process. Having been in the Newell bidness for over 10 years, I have had plenty of opportunity to rebond doors and bay doors. The earlier attempts using different adhesives, different clamping strategies, and different surface preparations all eventually started to delam again. Another guru, unnamed, had mixed results also.

The breakthrough in thinking was that we were overclamping the bonds and squeezing out the adhesive. After all, in wood working more clamping is always better. In the early days, I used more and more clamps.

The technique I have used for bay doors that seems to work very well is very similar to what Steve did. Clean up the old bond with 3M adhesive remover, and then scuff the surfaces with a wire wheel or coarse grit disc. I then used small spacers of 3M double sided adhesive tape located around the bond line every three inches or so. The purpose of the spacers is to keep from squeezing out the adhesive. Wet out the adhesive on both surfaces and then assemble. Lightly clamp.

I found an added benefit of using the double sided tape was that once I lined up the two pieces on the assembly marks, they did not move around relative to one another while I fiddled with the clamps.

On the bay doors, I also added a radiused fillet of epoxy at the skin frame juncture all the way around.

My thinking from looking the failed doors, was that the crack or separation always started at the upper corner. The stress is concentrated there when the door is closed. The purpose of the fillet is to distribute the stress.

I have used urethane adhesives, epoxies, and two part acrylics in the past. My favorite, and easiest to use is Jamestown Distributor’s Thixo in the caulk gun cartridge. It’s a two part flexible epoxy that uses a static mixer tip on the end of the cartridge so that you simply squeeze it onto your workpiece. It’s thick enough that it doesn’t run.

Just my .02
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
In the aviation sheet-metal world we used some serious bonding products that are not cheap but really worked great.  I like and will be using Richard's bonding method on my next door(s) project.  It seems to be a cost effective way to fix a de-bonded door  If I have to rework the entry door that to will get the same treatment. 

Steve & Doris Denton
45' Newell #525, Bath & Half
2014 Honda CRV Toad
Newell removed and rebonded my entry door a number of years ago. Their procedure was similar to yours Steve. They also put rivets around the door panel. Not sure if that is good or bad. Looks better without them but no question it keeps it from moving. Newell recommended adding the rivets on my 1992 model even through it didn't have them originally. Certainly has helped with the door sticking issue which was totally resolved.
Michael Day
1992 Newell 43.5' #281

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