11-09-2019, 10:34 AM
At the risk of just restating the excellent input you have gotten from others, let me take a stab at what I would do in this situation.
Refurbishing the system with new valves is a worthwhile endeavor if you plan on keeping the coach. I would much rather work on stuff while I am at home, than in the middle of Wyoming.
I would take the approach of dividing the problem into two areas, electrical and solenoid valves.
The first thing I would do is ensure that the valves are wired correctly and the switches are doing what you think they should do. It’s a plain and simple exercise to have one person activate a switch and the other read the volt meter. Use a label maker and label the wires once you have confirmed they have power when they are supposed to. I like leads for the voltmeter with alligator clips on the end so I don’t have to fiddle with holding the leads on the wires. Also while going to this effort, check every pair for power when you activate each switch. It’s extra effort but you will protect yourself from unexpected wiring anomalies.
Only after confirming proper electrical function would I replace the MAC valves. The skinner valves are a band aid I think, and I would think very hard about using the MAC valve and skinner valve in series. You need one or the other, not both.
When I wired the new MAC valves in, I would use the watertight butt connectors, and hit them with the heat gun to seal them up.
Make a map of the system to add to your coach documentation.
Refurbishing the system with new valves is a worthwhile endeavor if you plan on keeping the coach. I would much rather work on stuff while I am at home, than in the middle of Wyoming.
I would take the approach of dividing the problem into two areas, electrical and solenoid valves.
The first thing I would do is ensure that the valves are wired correctly and the switches are doing what you think they should do. It’s a plain and simple exercise to have one person activate a switch and the other read the volt meter. Use a label maker and label the wires once you have confirmed they have power when they are supposed to. I like leads for the voltmeter with alligator clips on the end so I don’t have to fiddle with holding the leads on the wires. Also while going to this effort, check every pair for power when you activate each switch. It’s extra effort but you will protect yourself from unexpected wiring anomalies.
Only after confirming proper electrical function would I replace the MAC valves. The skinner valves are a band aid I think, and I would think very hard about using the MAC valve and skinner valve in series. You need one or the other, not both.
When I wired the new MAC valves in, I would use the watertight butt connectors, and hit them with the heat gun to seal them up.
Make a map of the system to add to your coach documentation.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)