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Lower Coach and drive
#1
Good morning!
We are getting moved to Southern Illinois/St. Louis area and we just bought a house.  It has a pole barn with a 12' door.  My 1990 can fit, if the suspension is deflated.  Is there a way to deflate the suspension and prevent it from airing up inside the barn?  I know there's the Lower button on the HWH, but that isn't going to work right.  Another solution would be to dump the air and hurry up and get out during the window of brakes working and airbags still down - but that sounds dangerous.  I'm also considering a set of switches on the 6 pack to prevent the travel solenoids from activating.  Any other less invasive ideas?

Secondly, I'll likely add some 50 amp receptacles on the side of the barn for guests - so that invitation will be open to all of you.

Last problem with the barn is that it is 30x40.  I need to add another 10' section off the front to fit the whole coach.  Any pole barn constructors in the area on this forum?


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Chris and Family
1990 Newell 43.5' #234
#2
Dig a trench with the green machine in the picture.
1995 # 390
#3
I don't think it is included in the sale.  I did think about that.  However, I don't really want a 6-12" gap under the door or a pit inside the barn to collect water.
Chris and Family
1990 Newell 43.5' #234
#4
Use the HWH buttons to let the air out of the suspension BUT in the rear, you can NOT let all the air out or the fender flares will rest on the rear outside tires and you will grove the tires with the metal fender. If that gives you enough clearance you can start the engine, the HWH will switch to ride mode. Immediately press the level button again. It should stay in level mode as you slowly pull forward or back out. It will typically switch back to ride mode if you get your speed up over about 3 - 5 miles per hour. Just watch the panel and be sure it stays in level mode. You should be able to slowly move the coach with the suspension lowered about 2-3" from normal if the ramp is smooth (don't let the coach rock side to side or the tires will get ground down).

Since you want to lengthen the building anyway, The entry side of the building could be extended and modified to move the door somewhat closer to the center and the new and existing framing modified to give you an extra 6" of clearance. The door could be modified so you would not have the extra 6" of space under it. I think 6" of extra clearance and lowering the coach about 2" will give you enough clearance to get in and out slowly.
Michael Day
1992 Newell 43.5' #281
NewellOwner.com
#5
Good call on moving the door to the center.  It crossed my mind the other day, but it didn't stay there.  Shouldn't be too hard to do.  We don't close until July 30 and we will get up there around that time, as well.
Chris and Family
1990 Newell 43.5' #234
#6
I was thinking similar to Michael. What about rebuilding that front rafter and moving it up a foot or so? If you add to the front of the barn you'll be moving the door there.
Forest & Cindy Olivier
1999 Foretravel 36' U320
former 1998 Newell 45' 2 slide #486 

former 1993 Newell 39' #337 
2011 Chevy Tahoe 

2010 Silverado w/ RZR 570LE
#7
When you add on to the front, dig out 1-2 ft of the floor in the whole building. Add a stem wall of cinder block around the edges (back & 2 sides) . You will need new doors for front. ALL of your rafters would need to be redone otherwise. Also, from pics, doors look to be right at rafter height all the way across. Wouldn't gin anything by moving door to the center.
#8
If that were my building and I ever planned on a concrete floor I would raise the building two feet + or- before adding on to it. I have built pole buildings but haven't actually raised one though I know it has been done.
What is the distance between the roof trusses?
1993 Newell 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '13 Grand Cherokee.
#9
I needed more height, so before I put in the concrete floor, I dug out my garage and lowered the driveway for proper drainage, so there is no water coming in the front.

When you add on, 10 ft may not give you as much room inside as you might think . . . . .

Also, adding to the bottom of the door shouldn't be too much trouble for the crew that adds to the length.

I may not cost as much as you think to have a "bobcat" guy come out & do the digging for you.
1987 classic #159
8V92 MUI , Allison 740


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