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Front A/C blowing breakers
#21
russ, i agree, i dont believe it is the Circuit breakers. i do believe that they were the wrong size and chester fixed that.

richard, the scs are sealed and if you want to add you have to solder in the ports.

tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

#22
Bill Johnson, you offered to photo your control board. What I need to know is which wires to measure the amps for the fans on the control board. It seems to me that the increase in the amps at the breaker is not necessarily due to the compressor, but I suspect the condenser fan to be the problem and would like to check both fans at the control panel. Tom and Russ, the new #1 breaker that allowed 31 amps may not be at fault since I quickly turned off the thermostat. As a precaution, I am going to put in another new breaker. Again, what a great forum. If I have to tear into the a/c here in Mexico, I will photo everything I do. If it is in fact the fan, Mexican tradesmen are fantastic at rebuilding motors.
2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
#23
Chester,

In my previous post I attached a pdf file showing the board layout and identifying the wires that feed each motor. That should be sufficient to identify them. May I suggest you unplug all three motors and check the current on only one at a time. That should reduce my worry you will damage the control board.
I have attached an actual picture of the board, but I don't think it is as helpful as the pdf which identifies each connector.

Good luck and keep us all in the loop on what you are doing.

Typing and reading what I just typed gave me another idea. You could just leave only one motor plugged in, say the condenser you are concerned about, then keep taking your measurements at the main breaker panel and that way you would only see the current of the one motor that was connected.

What have you decided about starting capacitors?

Russ


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Russ White
#530
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
#24
Ok, short of pressure taps. We will do some redneck, my specialty, testing. When you turn the unit on put your hand on the two pipes coming in and out of the compressor one should get hot and o e cool if the compressor is working at all
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#25
Russ, I did not see the pdf file before, but this should do the job. Richard, I do not have access to the compressor until I remove the air ducts and the metal top of the unit. I will report back as soon as I can.
2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
#26
Here is the latest regarding the a/c saga. Unplugged everything, then tested the inside fan, 1.4-1.5 amps, runs fine. Compressor #1, no fans attached, 8.0 to 9.5 and basically steady for a short time I let it run without fans. The outside condenser fan 2.9 to 3.6, but the fan is not running and makes a humming noise. Compressor #1 and both fans, 14.1 total amps, and increases 1/10 amp per second. I previously misstated the increase at 1 amp per second. A refrigeration man got under the coach during this last test and concluded that the fan blade turned roughly when he tried to turn it with a screwdriver. I would not run even when coaxed. He concluded that the bearings were bad or needed oil (he thinks there are two oil tubes on top of the motor). He said the capacitors looked good and were the best available, but did not have a tester. He is convinced it is the fan bearings. My plan is to remove the top from the compressor to get access to the fan. Any comments or suggestions? Again, thanks to all.
2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica
#27
Chester - Now that makes more sense! I can see the compressor current climbing at that rate with no condenser fan. Sounds like you have the culprit in your sights.

I would still recommend starting capacitor renewal, assuming you have some way of getting them down there.
Please take lots of pictures and notes on what is involved in getting to the fan motor. If it were me, and I could, after all that work to get in there when I buttoned it up there would be a new fan motor installed. Then again, you may just trying to get it working long enough to get back home for a more complete repair. I hope we all helped you along the way. Remember, that poor condenser motor has had some very hot windings with those bad bearings keeping it from getting up to speed.
Stay in touch and I look forward to hearing how it goes. Russ
Russ White
#530
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
#28
chester, i dont believe you need to change the breaker. i think it is ok.

sounds like the experts got you the right direction. (richard and russ)

tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

#29
Ta da! Replace the motor if possible or at least replace the bearings or bushings. It explains all the symptoms
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#30
It was a lot of work, but I got the condenser fan out. It is a GE motor and I have attached the identification plate photo. I am trying to figure out what the model number is, and if anyone can sort out the correct number, please post. Also, any suggestion as to where I can purchase this motor would be helpful.
   
2001 Newell #579
tow a Honda Odyssey
fun car: 1935 Mercedes 500K replica


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