When I bought the coach, the plumbing bay door had a loose outer skin. With the possibility of this coach going for a full paint job I wanted to tackle this to avoid additional charges from the shop doing the paint work. What I found is Newell used some form of double sided tape that dried up and let go. I bought some urethane two part caulk panel adhesive but wondering if I should just put 3m wide double side tape instead. What do you guys think? I cleaned up both faces of the panels. the 3M red tape that Home Depot sells might be just a hair thicker than what was used but I don't see that making a bid difference. Either way, I do have some wood and clamps to hold the skin onto the base while either method sets.
Thanks Richard! I feel old as I posted in that thread and yet forgot I did. Might be time to find myself assisted living soon if this memory loss keeps up…
(09-12-2023, 01:51 PM)BusNit Wrote: Thanks Richard! I feel old as I posted in that thread and yet forgot I did. Might be time to find myself assisted living soon if this memory loss keeps up…
We'll all be in the Newell Unit reminiscing
Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
I just finish my fuel door which is the last door out of 4 I've repaired, someone in the past opened the slide and the fuel door was open which was bad news. I found this little tool invaluable for taking off the adhesive tape, has a flat blade on the end.
1999 45' with tag axle, #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
I was able to get all the old tape off rather easily with a single edged razor on a long handle tool. I went to the auto body supply house and picked up some wide 3M double sided tape. I didn't use anything but tape and clamped it down. Turned out really solid. I am sure it will be fine. I have yet to have 3M tape fail on other projects. The cargo bay door has some light bends where the gas struts mount to. I will fabricate a couple pieces of angle iron to strengthen those areas. The plumbing bay and fuel tank access bays are the most used compartments.
(09-12-2023, 05:37 PM)hypoxia Wrote:
(09-12-2023, 01:51 PM)BusNit Wrote: Thanks Richard! I feel old as I posted in that thread and yet forgot I did. Might be time to find myself assisted living soon if this memory loss keeps up…
We'll all be in the Newell Unit reminiscing
I'm thinking I'll be there much sooner than you guys
--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
(This post was last modified: 09-13-2023, 08:08 AM by BusNit.)
Bay door has some reinforcements to spread the load of the gas struts. Super happy with how solid it feels whereas before the door felt springy as if it were bending on the pivot points. The gas strut mounting plate is welded onto the 1/8" thick angle steel with through bolting to original holes. The plumbing bay doors on each side have the most flex. I will reinforce the other side tomorrow as well as the bay doors for the fuel tank access for good measure. I have 1/2" wide foam gasketing material coming on Saturday for the perimeter of the door skin.
--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
(This post was last modified: 09-14-2023, 08:10 PM by BusNit.)
I have 1/2" wide foam gasketing material coming on Saturday for the perimeter of the door skin.
Am I'm reading this right that you've found an alternative to the $4,752 per inch gasket!?! Very interested in seeing what you get and how it works for you
Arch & Mary Jones
1997 Newell #463
Williamsburg, VA or Gettysburg, PA
depending on what day it is
Yes, I did! I also found an excellent EPDM rubber "D" bubble trim for the cargo bay door seals on amazon for 1/3 the price of Steele Rubber. Excellent Chinesium material that is not your typical deteriorating rubber garbage from that part of the world. I will let you know how the 1/2" flat gasketing works out. I went through 2 new hand rivet guns on only 40 rivets in one hour. So pissed at the garbage quality of tools at Lowes/Home Depot. I have another 150 rivets to go. My pneumatic rivet tool will not fit where these rivets are so I am limited to doing this repair by hand. The compartment doors were either missing alot and I mean alot of rivets or the existing ones were so loose you could spin them by hand. I can't believe how tight the doors have become with the steel supports and new rivets on the ones I was able to do. Of course this really applies to the older coaches like mine where the bay doors are hinged at the top and swing up on two gas struts.
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