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Coach has been sitting for three weeks, went to exercise it today and the steps wouldn't retract. Anyone know where the fuse is located?
Inside the first bay where the a/c units are. Left hand side
The steps have a torque sensor to stop them if they strike something while opening. If they are sticky they won't operate properly. Try spraying the lube of your choice on all of the joints. That may be all it needs.
Bob,

I think the fuse may be in the passenger kick panel. In addition to what Forest suggested, look under the steps and find the arm that attaches the motor to the steps. IIRC, there is small pin with either a circlip or cotter pin. Pull the connecting pin, and close the door. If the motor actuates then the steps are stuck and overcoming the torque stall on the motor.
Good advice so far. If motor still not working after disconnecting steps, here is a troubleshooting guide.

http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/...0Chart.pdf
I disconnect the steps from the motor/gearbox in my initial troubleshooting, steps move freely. Nice troubleshooting guide. I will run through the flow chart and let you all know what I find.
Used the trouble shooting chart and determined the motor was shot. PPL in Houston had the parts however; you can't order the motor alone, it comes with everything but the steps. I ordered on a Monday and got it on Wednesday. Great service. While I had the steps apart, I took the opportunity to remove them for inspection and paint. Found some cracks on the mount. Sandblasted, welded, painted, lubed and reinstalled. Thanks for the help guys
I just finished rebuilding my steps. The motor is a 1988 Lincoln power window motor, ACI window lift motor part # 83694, $46.00 at autozone. Three bolts will remove the motor/wormgearbox from the step gearbox to replace.
You guys are amazing how you can find parts! I probably would have still gone with replacing all the components.....its just me. Now that there is a new gearbox, electronic controller and switch, there isn't anything else to break.
Replacing all of the components is really the best way.
The main gearbox has a bit of "play" in it but since we only take a few weekend trips per year I decided to lube it and use it. I've been told that the electronic controller is fairly trouble-free so I left that in place. The initial problem with mine was the plastic gear in the wormgear box stripped. I also found some stress cracks on the mounting plate and welded them up before stripping and painting with Eastwood "chassis black".
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