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john, do you think maybe the door is caught and just not opening? my bathroom door does that and i have to nudge it sometimes and then it works. just a thought

tom
(12-08-2015, 10:28 AM)encantotom Wrote: [ -> ]john,  do you think maybe the door is caught and just not opening?  my bathroom door does that and i have to nudge it sometimes and then it works.  just a thought

tom

Hey Tom,
That's what I originally thought, but after some toying with it, and talking with Richard, I think it has something to do with water in the system and the solenoid for the midship air door. I have some work to do. I'll let you know after I get the solenoid rebuild kits and install them, and drain my tanks. I gotta get a handle on this stuff!
Just to add some pertinent info for the other gurus. John has a pretty good air leak resulting in the 110 compressor running a lot. That and the Florida humidity will result in excess water in the air systems. I suggested he take the sequence valve on the potty apart and lube it with plumbers silicone.

John, the solenods lids for the doors and the dump valves are not the same make or model. Just a heads up
(12-09-2015, 09:04 AM)Richard Wrote: [ -> ]Just to add some pertinent info for the other gurus. John has a pretty good air leak resulting in the 110 compressor running a lot. That and the Florida humidity will result in excess water in the air systems.   I suggested he take the sequence valve on the potty apart and lube it with plumbers silicone.  

John, the solenods lids for the doors and the dump valves are not the same make or model. Just a heads up

Hey Richard,
Thank you for taking the time to talk to me the other day. Hope you got your fence painted! Brrrrrrr!
Regarding the solenoids, not sure what you mean by the "lids". Please let me know, Thanks!
Just got the rebuild kits in for the dump valve and Palm valve.
John
Arrrrrrrgh, that is the result of autocorrect on my phone and not wearing my reading glasses. Solenoid turned into solenod lids. Ha.
"Arrrrrrrgh, that is the result of autocorrect on my phone"

Oughta call it auto-mistake!
(12-11-2015, 06:03 AM)Richard Wrote: [ -> ]Arrrrrrrgh, that is the result of autocorrect on my phone and not wearing my reading glasses.  Solenoid turned into solenod lids. Ha.

Lol! I know that feeling.
Would you happen to know the part numbers of the air door solenoid or the rebuild kit?
Thanks!
I'm in Florida too and my tanks get LOTS of water build up in them. I've had 3 ideas…let me know what you all think.
I have debated installing the semi-truck style pull drains in the tanks so they're easy to drain with a pole (translates as I don't want to get under the coach), but the Newell techs say they have a tendency to leak / give problems in sub-freezing temperatures. I haven't heard of any other air-equipped rigs with pull drains having freezing problems. Have any of you all used these pull cord drains?
I also am debating using a desicant style air drier between the 120V Gast compressor and possibly another at the rear for shop air. These desicant filters are how we dry scuba air after compressing it but they're disposable (another recurring cost). I think they may dry the air better than the bowl type filter / drier though.
I also may try to copy the auto drain feature on some of the subsequent rigs (after 510) because mine has a manual drain and gets full in about 1 week ... I suppose the water is just pushing through it when its full. This should probably be my first step!
I have used the pull cord drain valves for years on my supply and two brake tanks. I have had to replace them once when they started leaking but that was after 5 years. I got ones with a 6 foot chain and was able to route the front valve cords into a bay and the rear valve cord into the wheel well so you can easily pull them by hand every day or two. Since I don't live in near as humid an area, I just manually drain the 120 volt air compressor drain.
I replumbed my 120v compressor output so that after it goes through the bowl type drier near the pump it then goes into the big drier in the rear of the coach used by the engine driven compressor. One thing I have yet to do is create a setup where I can occasionally manually trigger the recycle of that big drier without having to start the engine. Since my 120v compressor only kicks on twice a day it's a project low on my priority list.
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