11-30-2015, 09:22 AM
11-30-2015, 09:40 AM
I recently had all of mine checked while the coach was lifted so you could walk under it. Many of the tanks are built into the frame itself and thus do not look like tanks, and the have plugs instead of pet-cocks. I think there are four or fine that look like air tanks, but the others are usually in frame cross members.l
11-30-2015, 11:27 AM
Tom,
Please tell me what size O rings to rebuild the Solenoids, and if any gaskets, special tools or such are needed.
And where to get them? I was thinking Harbor freight?
Thanks.
Please tell me what size O rings to rebuild the Solenoids, and if any gaskets, special tools or such are needed.
And where to get them? I was thinking Harbor freight?
Thanks.
11-30-2015, 11:41 AM
Look in basement compartment R-1. You may or may not have a 3 gallon tank with a petcock to drain the water. You probably do as you have the air operated genset release.
Look on the front wall of the wheel well on the right side--another 3 gallon tank with petcock.
Look on the rear wall of the left wheel well and you will see the air dryer with the desiccant filter on top.
Now you have to look under the coach:
Front: 2 large round black air tanks with petcocks to drain water--these are for your brake system. Two crossmember tanks which should have petcocks. If they don't you will have to remove the plugs and put in petcocks. The first crossmember tank is located just behind your genset. The other is located just to the rear and above your front ride height control valve. The two crossmember tanks are for your front leveling system and front air ride.
Rear: 1 large black air tank with a drain--this is for your rear brakes. Then there are 3 crossmember air tanks. The forward most one is above the transmission cooler. The second one is between the drive and tag axles. These two are ping tanks for your drive axle leveling and air ride. The third crossmember air tank is located above the transmission. This air tank is two tanks in one and services your tag axle leveling and air ride. There should be a petcock on the bottom on the left & right side of the transmission. I had to remove a plug & install a petcock on the right side as Newell had only put one on the left side.
All of the water drains are located on the bottom of the tanks.
An alternative to petcocks is to remove them & install lanyard drains for easier draining.
Now for my opinion. I drain all air tanks 3 times a year when I lube the chassis. I advise draining them at least twice a year.
Shamu Do you have a name??????????
Look on the front wall of the wheel well on the right side--another 3 gallon tank with petcock.
Look on the rear wall of the left wheel well and you will see the air dryer with the desiccant filter on top.
Now you have to look under the coach:
Front: 2 large round black air tanks with petcocks to drain water--these are for your brake system. Two crossmember tanks which should have petcocks. If they don't you will have to remove the plugs and put in petcocks. The first crossmember tank is located just behind your genset. The other is located just to the rear and above your front ride height control valve. The two crossmember tanks are for your front leveling system and front air ride.
Rear: 1 large black air tank with a drain--this is for your rear brakes. Then there are 3 crossmember air tanks. The forward most one is above the transmission cooler. The second one is between the drive and tag axles. These two are ping tanks for your drive axle leveling and air ride. The third crossmember air tank is located above the transmission. This air tank is two tanks in one and services your tag axle leveling and air ride. There should be a petcock on the bottom on the left & right side of the transmission. I had to remove a plug & install a petcock on the right side as Newell had only put one on the left side.
All of the water drains are located on the bottom of the tanks.
An alternative to petcocks is to remove them & install lanyard drains for easier draining.
Now for my opinion. I drain all air tanks 3 times a year when I lube the chassis. I advise draining them at least twice a year.
Shamu Do you have a name??????????
11-30-2015, 05:58 PM
Thanks Steve,
Wow, that is a lot of tanks to check. I can't crawl under my coach to check them though, what should I do?
Wow, that is a lot of tanks to check. I can't crawl under my coach to check them though, what should I do?
11-30-2015, 07:08 PM
John,
If you have no way to do it yourself then you'll have to take it to some one who can. Don't know where you are located so can't give you a suggestion in your area. If you ignore this basic maintenance item your air problems will only get worse.
Did you get any water out of the 3 gallon air tank in basement compartment R-1 or the 3 gallon air tank in the right rear wheel well? Both of these are doable without getting under the coach.
The air systems are one of the most neglected systems on our coaches, but can cause many problems. Water is not a friend of any of the air system valves.
You never said when your desiccant filter was changed, but that is also doable without getting under the coach. The air dryer and the desiccant filter are what remove water before it enters your air system.
If you have no way to do it yourself then you'll have to take it to some one who can. Don't know where you are located so can't give you a suggestion in your area. If you ignore this basic maintenance item your air problems will only get worse.
Did you get any water out of the 3 gallon air tank in basement compartment R-1 or the 3 gallon air tank in the right rear wheel well? Both of these are doable without getting under the coach.
The air systems are one of the most neglected systems on our coaches, but can cause many problems. Water is not a friend of any of the air system valves.
You never said when your desiccant filter was changed, but that is also doable without getting under the coach. The air dryer and the desiccant filter are what remove water before it enters your air system.
11-30-2015, 08:58 PM
Steve,
Where is R-1 located, right side 1st compartment? Is the other 3 gallon located in the left front wheel well, and the filter located in the left front wheel well?
The filter was changed last year and a tank or two was drained. But I don't think they knew there were so many air tanks involved. I'm in St.Petersburg, Florida. I've taken it to Parliment Motorcoach, but have not been very satisfied with the work they have done.
I own a small car dealership, grew up on my fathers car lot, and have been a mechanic for over 35 years. So I like to do a lot of repairs myself, but the Newell is a whole different animal. I need some coaching and need to know what needs to be done to keep it up correctly.
Currently I'm having the air problems, I need to replace or rebuild the sewer dump valve solenoid, the palm valve solenoid, and I just started having problems with the air door separating the kitchen and the master bedroom and the toilet flapper not closing. I think all these issues are related to my air problems.
I have some more issues, but one thing a t a time I guess.
Any help would be great.
And, thank you for what you already have told me. I will check the tanks tomorrow.
Where is R-1 located, right side 1st compartment? Is the other 3 gallon located in the left front wheel well, and the filter located in the left front wheel well?
The filter was changed last year and a tank or two was drained. But I don't think they knew there were so many air tanks involved. I'm in St.Petersburg, Florida. I've taken it to Parliment Motorcoach, but have not been very satisfied with the work they have done.
I own a small car dealership, grew up on my fathers car lot, and have been a mechanic for over 35 years. So I like to do a lot of repairs myself, but the Newell is a whole different animal. I need some coaching and need to know what needs to be done to keep it up correctly.
Currently I'm having the air problems, I need to replace or rebuild the sewer dump valve solenoid, the palm valve solenoid, and I just started having problems with the air door separating the kitchen and the master bedroom and the toilet flapper not closing. I think all these issues are related to my air problems.
I have some more issues, but one thing a t a time I guess.
Any help would be great.
And, thank you for what you already have told me. I will check the tanks tomorrow.
12-01-2015, 05:34 AM
John,
First thing can you verify that your 12V & 110V air pumps are working and building proper air pressure. Your 12V air pump should build air pressure to about 55 psi. Your 110V air pump should build pressure to between 110 & 120 psi.
R-1 is the front basement compartment on the right side. I have seen over a gallon of water collecting in that air tank.
The second three gallon air tank is located on the front wall of the right wheel well in front of the right drive tire.
Since you are having so many air problems I suspect water is your issue and the first place I would look. It is also the easiest place to start. If you find any water, then you are going to need to get it out and replacing the desiccant filter is a good starting point. Remember you live in a very humid climate so your coach is going to collect water much more than a coach in Arizona. Once you get the moisture under control, then I would start valve by valve fixing or replacing them. In your climate I would be replacing the desiccant filter once a year.
Working on a Newell is not difficult for some one with some tools and mechanical skills. Understanding the different systems and how they work can be challenging.
Since I don't know what you have available to you, I'll describe how I get under my coach and you can determine if you can also do so. I have a concrete surface and park my coach on 2 X 12s which raises the coach 1 1/2". I then use the HWH leveling system to raise the coach all the way up. I then crib the coach up using 8 X 8s that I cut to length--two fit under the trailer hitch and two under the front skid plates. I then put HD jack stand under the square pads that are located behind the front & rear sway bars. I can now safely go under the coach and perform every thing, including lubing the chassis and draining the air tanks.
If you cannot get under your coach you are going to have to find some one competent to do it for you. I would look for some one who services buses. Being in Florida you should have some available to you.
I hope this is helpful......................................
First thing can you verify that your 12V & 110V air pumps are working and building proper air pressure. Your 12V air pump should build air pressure to about 55 psi. Your 110V air pump should build pressure to between 110 & 120 psi.
R-1 is the front basement compartment on the right side. I have seen over a gallon of water collecting in that air tank.
The second three gallon air tank is located on the front wall of the right wheel well in front of the right drive tire.
Since you are having so many air problems I suspect water is your issue and the first place I would look. It is also the easiest place to start. If you find any water, then you are going to need to get it out and replacing the desiccant filter is a good starting point. Remember you live in a very humid climate so your coach is going to collect water much more than a coach in Arizona. Once you get the moisture under control, then I would start valve by valve fixing or replacing them. In your climate I would be replacing the desiccant filter once a year.
Working on a Newell is not difficult for some one with some tools and mechanical skills. Understanding the different systems and how they work can be challenging.
Since I don't know what you have available to you, I'll describe how I get under my coach and you can determine if you can also do so. I have a concrete surface and park my coach on 2 X 12s which raises the coach 1 1/2". I then use the HWH leveling system to raise the coach all the way up. I then crib the coach up using 8 X 8s that I cut to length--two fit under the trailer hitch and two under the front skid plates. I then put HD jack stand under the square pads that are located behind the front & rear sway bars. I can now safely go under the coach and perform every thing, including lubing the chassis and draining the air tanks.
If you cannot get under your coach you are going to have to find some one competent to do it for you. I would look for some one who services buses. Being in Florida you should have some available to you.
I hope this is helpful......................................
12-01-2015, 06:21 AM
John (Shamu)
Rhonda and I will winter in Tampa, New Port Ritchey. We will be there in mid Jan after the college kids return home. Let's get together and I could show you a lot of the things that Steve is referring to.
Rhonda and I will winter in Tampa, New Port Ritchey. We will be there in mid Jan after the college kids return home. Let's get together and I could show you a lot of the things that Steve is referring to.
12-01-2015, 06:33 AM
(07-24-2014, 11:34 AM)encantotom Wrote: [ -> ]my guess it will fix it. it isnt very hard. you do have to have the right o ring pliers.
tom
Tom,
Where would I find the rebuild kits or O rings to repair the Solenoids? Do I need special tools or pliers to do the job? If so, where, Harbor Freight? I found the Solenoids on Ebay, but at 92.00 I would rather try the rebuild first.
Thanks!