Just a maintenance reminder for those of you that have a 110V & 12V water pump--for those that don't you can just sit back and snicker. I had tried to test the 12V water pump after who knows how long, since I normally use my 110V water pump exclusively. It ran, but had lost its prime & I wasn't able to get it primed. I took another try at getting it primed & was successful by running each faucet, starting at the closest faucet to the pump and working to the furthest from the pump.
Also don't forget to test the 12V air pump occasionally. If we don't run these pumps occasionally, they won't work when we need them.
yea, i have had the same problem.
tom
Steve,
On the list and will test both tomorrow.
My 12v pump will pick up a prime (if I turn on the faucet closest to the pump) but it never shuts off. Any ideas where to start looking?
Mine was the same way Tuga until I ran all the faucets throughout the coach, starting with the wet bay faucet. Been on the 12V pump for almost 24 hrs & it is working properly. Turns on for water demand and shuts off shortly after the demand is stopped.
Water pump tested. In my case just opened the outside faucet after turning on the pump and you could clearly hear the change in sound as it began pumping water. I turned the faucet off, the pump stopped immediately. Will delay testing the 12 volt air compressor until the engine is ready to run - awaiting oil pressure sender.
russ, what does the 12v air compressor have to do with the series 60 and the oil pressure sender?
tom
Tom,
Well that's a fair question and here is the answer:
To test the air compressor I will need to bleed air from the coach. Once I have bled it down enough, the little air compressor should kick in. I don't want to refill the tank with air that has not been through the big dryer if possible. So, when the coach is ready to run again and make dry air I will test the little 12 volt compressor.
Russ,
My 12V air compressor does not have a dryer, but I don't think cycling it one or two times to test the compressor is going to introduce enough moisture to make any difference. If you start the engine you still have to drop the pressure enough to cycle the 12V air compressor, which still doesn't send the compressed air through the dryer. I just open the air release valve on the air tank in front of the passenger side drive wheel until the air pump cycles. I do it twice. That pump only compresses the air to 50 psi & runs for maybe 20 seconds.
I agree with you. I was thinking about how low I would have to drop it to get the little one to kick in. Once it kicks in, I can just turn on the 120vac auxiliary and I will be fine. Thanks!