Well almost done with this rebuild of this unit and all the sudden the front slide rear locking pin solonoid has blown a leak. Love all that hydralic fluid all over the ceiling and dinette. So question is can someone who has done this repair give me some advice on how to access that little thing. I can see it obviously but cant seem to figure out how you are suppossed to get to it. Not much space up there. Any help would be appreciated. Coach 480
Pull the slide valance, first. It's held on by a french cleat that has 6 or so cross pins.
Then the cove moulding. It's screws (at the bottom) should be visible once the valance is removed.
It should be fully uncovered then.
(08-28-2023, 06:27 AM)TJ Clark Wrote: [ -> ]Pull the slide valance, first. It's held on by a french cleat that has 6 or so cross pins.
Then the cove moulding. It's screws (at the bottom) should be visible once the valance is removed.
It should be fully uncovered then.
TJ,
I found pictures of a french cleat but did not find info on cross pins. What do they look like and how are they used in the french cleat?
Adam,
I will be very interested in seeing pictures/processing of this repair "as you go".
I cannot offer any advice for you but I understand what a mess that fluid can make.
I plan on rebuilding both of those cylinders as well prior to mine leaking.......I had a lower slide seal blow out, luckily it was near the wheel well and dripped underneath. You might consider doing those at the same time as well.
Glen
(08-28-2023, 07:39 AM)Gnawrocki1 Wrote: [ -> ]Adam,
I will be very interested in seeing pictures/processing of this repair "as you go".
I cannot offer any advice for you but I understand what a mess that fluid can make.
I plan on rebuilding both of those cylinders as well prior to mine leaking.......I had a lower slide seal blow out, luckily it was near the wheel well and dripped underneath. You might consider doing those at the same time as well.
Glen
as soon as I figure out how to get this trim piece off I will let you know. Will shoot some pics and try to walk ya thru it.
To get the trim piece off you need to pull the slide in about a foot. Latitude 28 has an excellent thread on how to rebuild these locking pins and also the part numbers of the parts you need to acquire.
To remove the valence.
Pull slide in. Use your hands and feel for one cross bolt at each end, about 18 inches from the end. You only have to loosen it. You will need a 7/16 or 3/8 wrench on both bolt head and nut. Else it will just spin.
Push straight up, perhaps with some enthusiasm. It’s heavy and awkward for one person to handle.
Suggest you use the search engine and find Latitude28 repair thread.
To remove the upholstered curve, first remove the “sweeper” brushes to access the screws holding the upholstered trim. You will see the other two hex head bolts holding the block with the slide pin.
(08-28-2023, 03:28 PM)Richard Wrote: [ -> ]To remove the valence.
Pull slide in. Use your hands and feel for one cross bolt at each end, about 18 inches from the end. You only have to loosen it. You will need a 7/16 or 3/8 wrench on both bolt head and nut. Else it will just spin.
Push straight up, perhaps with some enthusiasm. It’s heavy and awkward for one person to handle.
Suggest you use the search engine and find Latitude28 repair thread.
To remove the upholstered curve, first remove the “sweeper” brushes to access the screws holding the upholstered trim. You will see the other two hex head bolts holding the block with the slide pin.
Thank you as always. I did see the post on Latitude28 for the repair. will tackle this this afternoon.
Adam,
While you are there might as well do the other slide lock pin as its not far behind the one you have leaking now. Also, plan on doing the bedroom slide lock pins.
(08-28-2023, 06:27 AM)TJ Clark Wrote: [ -> ]Pull the slide valance, first. It's held on by a french cleat that has 6 or so cross pins.
Then the cove moulding. It's screws (at the bottom) should be visible once the valance is removed.
It should be fully uncovered then.
As a side note on pulling the valance....when I gained access to the actual screws and removed them the valance was still rock solid to the frame. I had to gently pry on the aluminum strip at the bottom to get it worked loose enough to rotate it away from the headliner.