Solder Sleeves, do you use them? I have not used solder sleeves although I know many do. I do not trust the connection and cannot understand how you have any idea if the solder really joins with all of the wire strands? I have soldered for many decades and have seen the good, bad and ugly with flux, cleanliness, wire types etc.. My recent experience seems to validate my opinion.
[
attachment=12569][
attachment=12570][
attachment=12571][
attachment=12572]
(09-25-2023, 07:55 AM)hypoxia Wrote: [ -> ]Solder Sleeves, do you use them? I have not used solder sleeves although I know many do. I do not trust the connection and cannot understand how you have any idea if the solder really joins with all of the wire strands? I have soldered for many decades and have seen the good, bad and ugly with flux, cleanliness, wire types etc.. My recent experience seems to validate my opinion.
Never tried them, but doubt I would. With my electrical background we do not solder anything. Only time I solder something is if it’s on a board or electronic type stuff. Everything else usually gets a mechanical crimp connection.
I, too, am using a professional crimper with heat-shrink WATERPROOF ADHESIVE splices.
I’m an old-school soldering kinda guy, but like Jeff, don’t see the need on a coach’s wiring; especially with the high-quality waterproof connectors and pro crimping tool.
I’ve used them repairing rodent chewed wiring under the hood of a car (and now have another car to repair similar damage). They actually work very well. The low temp solder flows well and provides a solid connection with heat shrink already in place. They do require more heat than one might imagine, but it’s less than a solder gun or iron will impart.
I will use them on my next repair tomorrow. IMHO, the tiny wires (22-24g) on these newer vehicles won’t stand up to the higher heat.
(09-25-2023, 08:13 PM)arcticdude Wrote: [ -> ]I’ve used them repairing rodent chewed wiring under the hood of a car (and now have another car to repair similar damage). They actually work very well. The low temp solder flows well and provides a solid connection with heat shrink already in place. They do require more heat than one might imagine, but it’s less than a solder gun or iron will impart.
I will use them on my next repair tomorrow. IMHO, the tiny wires (22-24g) on these newer vehicles won’t stand up to the higher heat.
I cannot understand how they insure a fully soldered joint given the fact that that the wires are not necessarily clean or have flux to insure a solid connection. I have seen so many poor connections that were exposed and visible. I am really curious about this. There are other questions such as mechanical etc., but I suppose the glue supplies that. I have seen some Avionics Companies advertising them which to be honest shocks me since I spent some time in that field. Does the FAA accept them?
I use them but I solder the wires together then slide the sleeve over and then heat shrink. Why your thinking? Because regular heat shrink doesn't have the seals at the ends that melts into the wire insulation. I don't depend on the solder that comes in them but sure like the clear heat shrink.
The adhesive lined heat shrink is a blessing and a curse. It's there to cover and protect a splice or connection which makes it nearly impossible to check that connection when a problem occurs. On battery cables it will hide the corrosion growing inside. In the case of my intermittent DEF Heater the only way to check it was cut the splice out and dissect it.
3M Heat Shrink Adhesive Lined