Newell Gurus

No the coolant thing is not that simple. Ignoring the cooling system can have devastating effects on your engine. A little knowledge can save you big bucks. Color at one time meant something, but not anymore. I don't think the brand is as important as knowing what you are starting with, continuing with a like product and occasional testing. My understanding is if you are using an OAT coolant you will no longer need to test the coolant or worry about adding SCAs. And don't forget to replace the coolant filter. I change mine every 15,000 miles, which for me is annually.

Steve I don't think I have a coolant filter on my 1982, but I am using the Power Cool.....added it when the water pump had to be replaced in February of 2012.

Clarke,
I think the coolant filters are a some what recent thing. It may and probably started with the series 60 engine. I must admit that I use the Power Cool primarily because I can buy it cheaper than any other HD coolants and I know it meets DD requirements.

Same here Steve....

i am back.

it took ALL morning to drain the coolant. the petcock is very slow. i got about 11-12 gallons out and i double filtered it and put it back in gallon jugs. so i feel comfortable reusing it. i ended up loosing a gallon or two, about half of which was in the lower chromed pipe coming off the bottom of the radiator.

the new silicon hose is much more flexible than the old one and fairly easy to get on. easy for me to say as my brotherinlaw was the one crawling in the back.

the water inlet on the bottom of the water pump had been leaking for along time and it was rusty. so we cleaned off the rust and sprayed it with a rust inhibitor paint. we will let it cure over the weekend.

we are painting the stand the hydraulic fan motor is on and i will polish the lower chrome radiator pipe while it is out.

btw, my radiator coolant is greenish. but that is the color of the recycled stuff leo uses on mine. it has the sca in it.

i will get a new filter since the one i got had sca precharge.

my next question is there any way special to get all the air out? and get coolant everywhere? i will fill the lower chrome pipe up as i install it. btw, it has a plug on the back of it for some reason.

do the petcocks on the coolant filter allow you to shut off the lines to replace the filter?

do any of you have the filter number with no sca precharge?

thanks

to

Now you have confused me. Why do you want a filter with no SCA pellets? I have been using a NAPA #4074 or DD 23507189. I believe both have sca pellets in them. I've used filters with SCA pellets now for 12 years on two different engines, tested regularly and never had to add SCA.

When I change coolant I bring it up to temp with the DASH heater on all the way. I cycle it up to temp several times on my 5 mile test route. I've added coolant as needed and never had a problem with trapped air.

On my coach there are petcocks on the filter in & out hose. Close the petcock on the filter in hose and change the filter. DON'T FORGET TO REOPEN THE PETCOCK!!!

hi steve. i read all the material and it says if you use coolant that has the sca already in it, you should not use a precharged coolant filter.

maybe i misunderstood it. i will go back and re-read it. we did concrete fences all afternoon into the evening and didnt do any more on the newell.

will try to get it all back together as far as the hoses go on monday and will pressure check it for a few days and if good, then put the fan and tank back on.

happy saturday

tom

Sounds like you're working off some of that labor your brother-in-law has done for you. I'm glad this radiator leak has not been more serious for you.

I've always been told to use a four pellet coolant filter and distilled water and you won't have any problems. I've followed that procedure and the coolant has always tested good. My owners manual advises using the NAPA 4074 coolant filter.

i will go to napa in the morning and get the 4074. the bw5075 has 15 units. that is what i got as the equivalent to the lfw4075 that is on it now.

tom

Tom,

I have been closely following this thread. I think that you have stumbled across something that I had not even thought about. Since I bought my bus used, I have no idea of what was done to the radiator fluid before I got it. As I read your posts, you have run into loose bolts along with seriously degraded hoses. We all know what can happen if you get a pin-hole and mist coolant onto a hot turbo.

That caused me to do research on my C-12 Cat engine. In my case the hoses to the filter are a source of many failures.

Since I am a better-safe-than-sorry kinda guy I have come up with a plan:

I am going to get the Cat dealer to dump my existing SCA fluid, flush the radiator, and replace with the Caterpillar OAT fluid. That will eliminate the need for a filter so I will get them to remove the filter and hoses. Finally, I will replace all the existing hoses with the new ones with super-duper clamps. While in there I will get them to verify that all the bolts are tight.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan for a 10+ year old coach?

Cheers,
bill