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1988 40 ft 8V92
Engine will start by jumping the starter mounted battery cable to the starter mounted solenoid terminal.
Will not start via the ignition switch.
Under dash circuit board:
Circuit 14 is supposed to be the starter circuit. It is hot, electrified not temp, when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. Ckt 14 is a fairly small red wire. The control wire at the solenoid is a black wire, 14-10 gauge, hefty.
This leads me to believe that Ckt 14 actuates a relay or solenoid closer to the starter.
Any ideas? Who, what, where, how, or Y?
Thank you,
Tim
Link to related discussion
Gurus,
Before you read this post, read the related thread regarding play in the steering gear.
I just got back from Richard Entrekin's house. One of the things we talked about was the amount of play in my steering. We discussed the u-joints as a possible source of play (as described in previous post). The rest of this post will walk you through our efforts and may present an opportunity if your steering gear is like mine.
If you have steering slop caused by the universal joints, it is most apparent by feeling the u-joints with the steering shaft removed. Alternatively you can hold the upper u-joint in one hand and rock the steering wheel withe the other. You are trying to feel a mechanical "lash" or looseness. If you have looseness, it could be the u-joints bolts are loose or the bearings in the u-joints are worn.
We were trying this technique on my coach when we noticed something truly puzzling. When we turned the wheel, the boot moved! The movement of the steering wheel should result in the steering shaft rotating only...not moving left and right.
We blocked up the coach and Richard crawled under and removed the bolt holding the lower U-joint to the steering gear box. I removed the screws holding the boot and undid the top bold and then pulled the steering shaft up through the hole in the floor.
Before I explain what we found, let's review how the steering column does it's thing...
The steering wheel is fixed and only allowed to rotate. The steering gear box is also fixed. Between the steering wheel and the steering gear box there is a shaft with a u-joint on either end. SO, IF BOTH ENDS ARE FIXED, THERE SHOULD NOT BE ANY MOVEMENT IN SHAFT OTHER THAN ROTATION. The Steering gear box converts the rotational input to a front-back movement via the Pitman arm. The Pitman arm connects to the driver's wheel via a drag link. On my coach the rest of the steering gear seemed to be tight, but what about that weird thing right above the lower u-joint?
SOURCE OF STEERING SLOP
That is called a "Rag" joint and is used to dampen road vibration. From the factory it has almost no "twist"...but after 250,000 miles, it has developed twist, twirl, shimmy and shake. In other words it is LOOSE! Richard and I tried to find a replacement but came up empty. Rag Joint Wiki
HOW TO DE-WOBBLE A LOOSE RAG JOINT
Richard added a small steel plate to the top of the rag joint. In the following picture, it is easy to see the steel plate. (Richard later cut off the corners so that it would fit back through the hole in the floor).
This removes all of the play from the rag joint. It also reduces the effectiveness of the road rumble damping, but it is a small price to pay for the gain in steering precision.
We reinstalled the steering shaft and verified that all the bolts were tight.
RESULT
The results were simply amazing! Before when a big truck passed me, I would have to "saw" on the wheel to maintain my position in the lane. Now, I can use one hand with no "sawing" to hold my position. The coach is far, far more stable.
DO YOU HAVE THE RAG JOINT?
To see if this fix will work for you, block your coach. Take a bright light and look above the steering gear box. If you have a "rag" joint, you may very well have this problem.
Thanks to Richard and others for the previous work on figuring out loose steering. This is simply another piece of the puzzle.
All,
If you have the above refrigerator and see the Service message with a code of 40 50 your thermistor has developed a problem. The thermistor is located on the circuit board. You can replace the thermistor by itself or replace both the thermistor and circuit board.
Reese Cantrell
Newell Coach 1242
Still working my 110 compressor and I have a question. There is a valve in the line between the compressor and the line to main line into the aux air tank. It has 3 spades but there where only 2 wires going to the switch. I ran the compressor and it shuts down at 110lbs. With out the valve in the line so the question is what is it and how to wire it. Will try to post picture
With all the Electrical Engineers and other that know way more about electronics than I do on this forum surely someone has looked at putting a Smart thermostat in their coach.
I’m talking about a Nest or Ecobee (my favorite) thermostat so we can monitor our coach or get alerts if the temps are too high or low inside.
I mean, after all, the main reason we bought all of our coaches is so that they are glorified, expensive dog kennels...
Anyone try this yet? I know the wiring on our t-stats is odd but it can’t be that much different considering we basically have regular home a/c units, right?
04-19-2019, 03:22 PM
Forum: Discussion about what to consider on buying a used Newell
- Replies (6)
Just a few questions as a new prospective DP owner. In considering a late 90's thru early 2000's model could anyone give their opinion on the following:
1. Are the slides a maintenance issue to be concerned about and is a Newell with no slides going to be signicantly less trouble maintaining with regard to problems with the weather (leaks and debris, etc.)
2. Is the resale market for a no slide coach considerably less than one with at least 2 slides.
3. Are the infrastructure components (generator, aqua hot system, leveling system, suspension, drive train & transmission etc.) vunerable for replacement in this vintage of coach (1995 - 2005).
Thanks for your suggestions,
Ken
Hi,
I am a long time RVer going the gamut from a Popup to my current 5th wheel Cougar. I am intrigued with the Newell brand. Having never seen one in person, it seems like it could be my next move upwards. Looking forward to learning and sharing information about the Newell coaches. I am looking for a clean used coach under $ 180,000 if anyone knows of one.
Regards,
Ken
Hello all,
Looking for a used base plate for a 1998-2005 VW Beetle Hatchback
There are 3 manufacturers that make them:
- 9518071 Demco
- BX3815 by Blue Ox
- 521225-1 by Roadmaster
If anybody has one laying around and not being used or on a vehicle that is no longer towed and wants to take it off for some extra cash, please let me know. Thanks.
Marius
574 323 8seven 8 seven
Hi y'all,
We're Roscoe & Geni Snoeberger,
We retired a little early (59) to find adventure on the road! I was a local Government water/wastewater, operator/inpector. My wife an NASA accounting specialist. We have been fulltiming now for 2 years and have really enjoyed it so far! You can check is out on our blog http://wanderingwilburys.blogspot.com
We currently have a 2015 25' ultra lite travel trailer made by forest river, towed by a 2015 Chevy Silverado. We met Clarke and Elaine Hockwald http://whatsnewell.blogspot.com working with them in 2017 at Yellowstone National park, they own a Classic Newell in fact a photo of theirs is on your header page. (Top right). That's where we were introduced to NEWELL, had never heard of it before then. Have been in many other so-called high end coaches but they never matched the quality of a Newell.
Well we are slowly looking for the right classic Newell coach. This web site is a wealth of information and history of NEWELL coaches. Thank you!
Roscoe Snoeberger
2015 Tracer ultra lite
2015 Chevy pu
while trying to work on 469 I noticed the 110 was off. After plugging into the 110 outlet polarity light was on have never seen this before. Do I have a problem the volt gauge seemed normal. One other thing is where we plug in is 110 with ground fault so we had to remove ground prong . It has been this way for a year. Thanks Joe

