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Hello,
From what I understand Microphor does not make the porcelain bodies of our toilets.  While working through my squawk list on 525 we had an air leak that require pulling the 1/2 bath toilet.  In the process, found the toilet floor base had been cracked before and glued together with who knows what.  Rather than take a chance, I added a layer of 2" fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to both base flanges.  The repair added some reinforcement to each flange.  Repaired the air leak and reinstalled the toilet being careful not to over torque the base bolts.  Back in operation with no issues:-)

my 99 had a problem that when you raised the suspension much above ride height, the drivers side tag bag would hiss air and leak alot.  it would drop down quickly to rideheight and stop hissing but then would completely drop at the rear drivers side overnight.  all other corners holding steady.  

i went off of what others had found out on their 99's as to which airbag the tag was.  i might note that the passenger side tag bag is a firestone and this drivers side one that was leaking is a goodyear and appeared newer.  in fact it was date coded 2014 when i took it off.  

i found at stengle brothers the ability to order 2 of the goodyear 1R11-202 bags that are needed for the tag.  they have two mounting studs top and bottom with them being rotated 90 degrees from each other top and bottom.  


after airing the coach up high, using a 22ton jack to raise it up higher and put jackstands under both rear sides, we took the tire off.  i have a 1" air impact wrench but i didnt have a 33 mm impact socket so amazon brought it in a day.  then i broke down and bought a truck tire wheel dolly to easily take the tire on and off.  picture below.  

with the tag wheel off it is easy to get at.  two 3/4" nylock nuts on the bottom up in the hole that you use a deep well socket and extension to remove.  the top has the same at the back and a 1/4" air line going in a brass adapter that screws into the bigger stud that the air goes into the bag with.  it was a 1 1/16" nut.  the airline was jammed in with the farrel so i cut the airline as close as possible since it was long enough.  

the way we did it was we jacked the tag axle up with a 3 ton floor jack to maneuver the airbag in and out.  

here is the interesting part.  the bag i took out was a goodyear 1R11-080.   i believe it comes with the top and bottom mounting studs in line with each other and then you have to rotate the bag on the bottom plate to get them to be 90 degrees out  the 1r11-080 said it was a replacment for the 938 firestone bag.  the 1r11-202 says it is also  replacement for the 9378.   but the 202 is rotated with the studs the right way as it came.  

the 080 bag just has a loose bottom plate and the airbag is just like a tubeless tire with a bead.  the 202 new bag is bolted in place on the bottom

there is some speculation that the older 080 bags that have the loose plate on the bottom could leak at the bead.  i do not think the 202 bag i put on will do that given the way it is bolted together.  

we had to ream the mounting holes out just a little to make ti go in easy.  put the top studs in and loosely put the mounting nuts on leaving lots of slack.  then used the floor jack to jack the tag axle up to get the airbag studs in the bottom holes.  then tightened them all, put the brass fitting in the air stud and a new farrel and compression nut and put the airline back on.  btw, i used teflon tape and sealant on the brass fitting  

using the wheel dolly makes it a breeze to put the tire/wheel back on.  

all seems to be good now

tom

Anyone know if there is more than ONE plug in the front of the coach (1998) to connect the VMSPC to? 
My wife (bless her) called VMSPc and they said she needed a different connector - I ordered BOTH of the round plugs just to be sure.  I am not at the coach so she is trying to get the VMSPC hooked up and working today as we will be driving the coach across country day after tomorrow.  
Can anyone confirm that this is the correct plug (square)?  Picture attached...

Gurus,

I am at the factory having annual service performed.  One of the things on my list to check out was a “clunk” in the front suspension when moving slowly and going over an impediment like a gutter.  

I had already noticed that the bushing that holds the sway bar was beginning to look a little worn and my plan was to get Newell to replace the bushings.  

It took them about five minutes to block and secure the coach and pull the passenger tire.  Another minute of poking around and they said that they had found the source of the “clunking”.  Yep!  My sway bar was BROKEN!  (Like in two pieces).

In my defense, the break occurred inside the bushing and was not easy to see.  With the wheel off, it was easier...but was not obvious.  It became painfully obvious that the bar was broken when the mechanic pulled out the short end.  (See pics).

Newell had a new sway bar in stock and was able to install.  (Installation is straight forward, but does require the airbags to be unbolted on bottom and pried up and out of the way)

I have not driven the coach yet, but the difference when I added rear sway bar was dramatic.  I suspect that this thing will drive a LOT better with a functioning sway bar.

If you look at the pics, you will see that the broken end is rusty.  This makes me think that the bar has been broken for a while.  I just recently noticed the “thunk” but have always felt the coach was not happy creeping over bumps at slow speed.  (Highway speeds are fine).  I’m gonna say that the PO was responsible and it was not the times that I have taken the coach off road, nor the numerous pot holes I have hit, nor the “tow truck incident”.  Nope, it was not my fault!  :}

So here is an upgrade idea....If you have a similar vintage to mine (Pre 2004 ZF) and you don’t have sway bars (front and rear), consider getting them.  You can look under coach in rear to see if you have one and the front is mounted behind the suspension with then ends under the airbags.  Newell apparently stocks them.

I included one pic of the new sway bar.

Bill

Picked up a project and thought you guys might want a look at it. ‘73 31 foot Private coach. 391/Allison
Haven’t had a chance to look at it really close.

I would like to find a new or better set of chrome mirrors for my 1998 my bases are peeling. If someone had painted ones I would consider as I can get them replaced. Thanks Joe 6-2 510 5621

Oh Mighty Newell Gurus I come to you with another issue... 

I replaced my indicator lights above drivers seat. 5/6 ain’t bad... well, the inoperative light coincides with the inoperative L2 ammeter gauge... I’m assuming...

Before I start taking “stuff” apart, has anyone had the same issue? 

While I was in there, I tried to straighten things up and correct a few other items. 

I also figured out why the radar detector wasn’t working. It was hooked up. Then I figured out why it wasn’t hooked up... it won’t stop beeping... well, it can be powered down but I gues it’s also inop...

Gurus,

On some coaches is a cool feature that allows you to flip one switch and fill your tank if you are connected to city water.  

If it works, it’s great!  But if it doesn’t work, it causes really weird problems.

The way that it works is that there is a cutoff valve is in the main water line after the pumps (12V and 120V).  When activated, it diverts pretty much all the water into the top of the tank.
   

It is made by Asco. (Model 104R Shutoff valve)  

   

The bad news is that the valve is prone to getting gunk’d up and stopping working.  More on that later.

The good news is that it is really old school and designed to be cleaned and repaired.  

To clean it, pop off the red cap.  Now here is the tricky part.  Depress the entire green housing.  That will allow the metal title plate to slide over and come off.  (The plate is what holds the housing to the piece with the center post).  Be sure to catch the spring at the base of the center post.  (See picture).

   
   

Once you have the housing off, you can remove the four bolts.  The center post and its base will come off now.  (There is a rubber diaphragm under the base).   You will find a plunger/spring under the diaphragm.  Clean it all up.  You will find a tiny hole in the diaphragm.  Make sure this is clean as well.  

Put it all back together including the springs.  NOTE:  the tiny hole need to be oriented 45 degrees away from the outlet. 


Symptoms:

1).  Low water pressure inside the coach no matter what you do.  City/Tank/12V pump/120V pump it doesnt matter.  You might have a little flow but not much.
2).  If you are connected to city water long enough, your tank will fill and will finally overflow.   This will create a big watery mess.  (Ask me how I know this).
3). The pumps will not develop enough pressure to cut off...even if you have no water running inside the coach.

The failure mode seems to be that the plunger gets stuck.  The diverts water into the tank even if you don’t want it to.

So in the words of an elder guru. ... “Think horses not zebras”.  I had already replaced my 12V pump thinking it was leaking air into the system and would not prime.  What was really happening is that the pump was working correctly but pumping water into the tank.  The clue that I should have paid attention to is that both pumps stopped working at the same time.  Also, the water tank overflowing was a well-duh moment.

If you have one of these valves, add an annual cleaning to your PM list.

Cheers,
Bill

Newell has #1500 for sale https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

   

   

   

Found a broken blade on the turbo intake fan.  See the picture.  Could this be the cause of the engine running hotter at higher speeds?  What is the recommended way to repair these, rebuild them?

Thanks, Frank