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Well, after running bumper pulls and a class 8 semi with 5th wheel camper for many years we finally decided to upgrade to a DP and fell in love with the look and feel of the Newells.  We just purchased #676 and got done taking our maiden voyage to Moab for a week long vacation (still a long way from retirement) to test it out.  We found a few things that will need fixed but nothing major that hasn't already been covered on this forum.  Prior to making the purchase I spent quite a bit of time using this forum to educate myself with some of the basic issues and problems that may occur with an older Newell and wanted to say thanks for all the threads and knowledge shared by many of you!  

Thanks
Joe & Sabrina

Finally a coach in my neck of the woods (Pennsylvania)...#1401. Front entry, bath and one half, 45ft, $590,000

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2010-Ne...5002640250

Also: www.2010newellcoach.com

Does anyone have info on ordering the o rings for our 6 packs?  We have searched all over town and can't find them any where!  Any suggestions,  or info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Pam

We have a drip that is speeding up in the bedroom.  We ran the AC all last night and it wasn’t working well.  We turned it off earlier today hoping to get someone out on Monday to take a look at it.  My assumption is it froze up.  I assume the ice is melting and causing the drip.

Some information- I have 4 roof AC units two front two back.  One of the two in back was not working and now it appears the other one in the back has stopped and is the cause of the leak.  The leak is near    the vents.

My questions:  do I turn it on to freeze it back up and try to stop the leak until someone can get out here?  Do I leave it off and just let it melt and limit the damage?  If the leak is near the vents does that lend credence to the melting ice theory and it is following that path?  What is above the ceiling?  With a one time leak like this do I need to take ceiling down or just dry it out good once air is working?
Can this wait till Monday if I can handle the temperatures?  Finally a f not, I don’t know about Emergency RV mobile repair in Foley Alabama.  Has anyone used a regular AC technician for RV air issues?   Anything you think I should know or do that I haven’t mentioned.

Thanks!

All,
Have a question on when to use the water pump. I understand when you are not hooked up to water you have to use the water pump, but do you turn your water pump on when you are hooked up to water? In the past when we were in a rv park hooked up to water I did not turn the pump on. When you are traveling do you leave the water pump on? Do you leave the water pump on all the time?
Our commodes use water pressure for flushing. Recently the commode got stopped up and I was asked if the water pump was on. The water pump was off because we were hooked to water. Thanks in advance for all opinions.

Reese

Newell Coach 1242

craigslist in tucson, az

https://tucson.craigslist.org/rvs/d/1978...13254.html

tom

Gurus,

I replaced all of my tail lights with LED versions a few years ago.  That was a terrific upgrade, but now they are looking a little tired.  Oxidation & sunlight have taken their toll on the lenses.  

   

Time to fix.

First I tried various types of buffing compound to remove the oxidation.  No luck.  Actually no effect at all.

Time to break out some elbow grease.

I went to a big box store and got packs of 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper.

I sanded with the 800 followed by the other grits....getting finer and finer.  (I used car quick detailer as the wet part)

Even after 2000 grit paper, there was a little fog left.  I put on a thin coat of wax and buffed that off and the one lens that I have completed looks brand new.  (Bottom right in pic)

   

So elbow grease + sand paper + quick detailer = new lens.

bill

Hi fellow Gurus,

I have a problem with my gearbox or electrics possibly?

I jumped into the coach and fired up and went to put in gear, the pad was displaying SM (system malfunction) i have the 12 speed ZF. The coach goes into gear ok but when i try to pull away the revs hardly build and the coach judders but won't move off, as if the clutch isn't engaging.

I have had a local shop look into it and so far have had the gearbox sent away for inspection, it had a new ECU and valve block fitted, the clutch is in perfect order as well, everything has been refitted and the problem is still there, the coach is supplying air fine and the actuator has also been replaced. approx $7000 spent and no further forward!!
 has anyone experienced these symptoms?

thanks
Rob

I see similar threads regarding generator slideout , but I think I may have a different situation. Coach has a 12.5 Kohler / Perkins . I was finally able to get the gen slide moving , but it stopped after a few inches . Sliding it back and forth it got better by degrees , but still stops well before the engine is far enough out to service . It's obvious that the exhaust is the hang up , bulkhead is flexing when I tug on it ( not a lot of force left in me ) . It appears that the pipe from the manifold slips into a larger pipe which is flush with the bulkhead. Is there a coupler that has to be unbolted ? I can find no mention of anything in the coach manual. There is a stay at the rear of the engine that has been broken for a long time , evidently someone has been down this road . 
I read the post about unbolting at the silencer , but the pictures appear completely different to my configuration.
Thanks, Chris

I thought it would be interesting to get some info on our forum members.  so here is a poll that simply asks your newell ownership status.  

thanks

tom