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Hi everyone, new to the site. Joined to learn more about Newell's. 

Dan

We changed fuel filters at rest area. We were losing power under load . I filled new filters and it started then died . Now roadside says bad fuel pump . I know it is lost prime . We are getting ready for tow . Any suggestions would help ! My number is 6039788916

This is a common problem that has been "fixed" using different materials.  I give Ashley Pardue credit for finding an o ring that has resulted in both his and my sewer connection not leaking a drop.

You can source the o rings at:

McMaster Carr-Part #9396k227

or

Amazon--https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN1132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation tip:  Coat the o ring with silicon grease and stick it on the stationary side of the Dupree sewer connection.  Bring the hose side up and tighten lock ring.  Lock ring is a little hard on the first connection.

I will report back on the durability of the o ring.

Hope this helps someone............................

I have found this coach for sale Vin# 1N9458X8851011732.

Is there a way I can get a history on this unit ?

Thanks
Jack

Quad slide, mid entry, bath and a half, 76,000 miles. $749,000

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2011-Ne...5002267158

Just something to share...
My Kohler gen decided to not stay running after releasing the switch that starts it, about a year ago. So after several attempts to repair this, talking with Robert at Newell, Gordon (Genman), all with no success. I finally found the problem, and wanted to share with the Gurus. 
Maybe some of you have already experienced this? 
The whole time thinking I had a fuel solenoid issue, it was not. 
This whole time I was jamming in a block of wood to push in the solenoid rod to keep it running. McGyver style. Lol
The gen is a bit tough to get to on my 1996, especially the manual start switch and fuses located at the rear. So, recently I pulled the 2 fuses near the manual start switch to check them, thinking there were only 2 fuses to check, low and behold there are 3! One is below the other 2, and very hard to see, you almost need to "feel" for it. Only then realising that the fuse cap and fuse were gone! Rattled out obviously. Wow, I felt silly, and certainly not the first time, as most of you have likely felt during your time with your Newell. 
(I hope I'm not alone here) 
Anyway, could not find the right fuse cap anywhere except Ebay finally. Got it, installed it and Eurika! I worked perfect. 
So bottom line, the fuse caps have the ability to rattle out, so now the issue is to prevent that from happening. 
So double check your fuses!
Any suggestions would be great. 
I thought of 200 MPH tape, but that would get sticky!

Hi guys just joined the forum today.

I have been a fan of Newell's for 15 years and have visited the factory.

The prices of the used coaches have finally come down to my price range and I am considering a purchase.
But before I do I have a couple of questions on quality.

1. I have heard that the older coaches, pre 2006 or so were of a better quality than the newer ones, let me now your thoughts.
2. I stay at MCC in the winter and have seen Newell repair people out there every winter for the whole season making repairs to the many Newells on site.
   This sounds like great customer support, but on the other hand why do they need to be out there all winter, do these coaches have that many problems ?

Thanks and I look forward to your responses.

Jack

Not sure if this is the right spot for this question, but I felt it was related to the category. As a newbie contemplating a coach purchase, I'm curious how realistic it is for rigs the size (and weight!!) of Newells to boondock and manage off the beaten path locations. I wouldn't be looking to do this as a primary activity, but, on occasion, I'd love to find a remote spot to be one with nature. I've read other sites about big rig boondocking, but I didn't find much talk in regard to Newell.

Spyder Wire fun.

Dads coach had several switches not working or not lighting up. I grabbed my wiz kid mechanic and we dug into it. We found corrosion on the Cat 5 connectors and the only way to get to them was to remove the panel and start taking it apart until we could get to them. Fun times with the dozens of wires going to it. We tried to clean the connections but in many of them the corrosion was the only thing keeping them together.
Talked to the guys at Spyder Controls in Canada and got the connectors on order. They are mighty proud of them at $120 each. We will also have to put new ends on all 18 Cat 5 wires going to the panel.

Fun times, for sure! :lol:

Hello all,

Does anybody have a source for bezels on the square gauges over the driver ? ( Line voltages, amps, DC draw etc)
The gauge itself is held in place by the plastic front black bezel with 2 screws on the sides (inside) hooked in 2 thin metal retainers molded into the plastic of the bezel. When the side retainers break off ( and they do easily after a few years of heat) , the gauge falls inside the cabinet.
I could use 4 bezels......plan B is silicone on the back but I'd rather do it right if I can find the bezels.....

Any ideas ?