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Coach 435 was broken into years before i got it and the Aqua-Hot had an electrical fire. In an effort to not replace the system with a new or refurbished unit i decided to tackle this project myself. 
First thing to do was identify the problem.
   
Problem found
What caused this issue? Was it from the vandals? or something else entirely?
Guess i didn't get a picture of that but it turns out the 120 element had shorted internally and caught fire.
The next thing to do was see where it was leaking from. I was unable to tell where it was coming from while it was in the coach so..
   
time to remove it and leak check the tank
   
Once it was fully removed from the coach i removed all the covers by drilling out the rivets. I still couldn't make a definitive pinpoint on the leak. At this point i unsoldered all the copper pipes and removed the tank and coil. I took it over to the hose and flushed it out with water a couple times and discovered the 120 element was the source of the leak.
At this point i went to the local ACE and bought 2 caps for the 1/2 inch pipes and 2 1 inch plugs for the heater element holes. Slapped some pipe dope on everything and filled it with water in the yard.
   
I made sure the tank was sitting level and left it for a 24 hour leak down test. When i checked it the next afternoon the water level seemed the same with no visible wetness to speak of. The black mastic had been soaked in coolant from leaking out of the burned up 110 element. 
The tank and coil seemed to be fine so, This can be saved. I went through the website at https://www.heatmyrv.com and placed an order for parts.
While I'm waiting on the parts i figured id make a few improvements as well (like shutoff valves on ALL lines) and ordered new insulation for it and got it all cleaned up.    
Most of the parts should be here Friday so i can complete the rebuild. The new overflow tank and coolant wont be here for another week as they are ground freight only and I'm in Alaska. 

Parts i ordered from heatmyrv were aqua hot specific everything else i got from Amazon. I'm not spending 56 bucks for a fuse block, nor will i spend 39 bucks for a plastic overflow tank. Especially when i can get a polished aluminum one for 29.
A couple weird things i notice thou was the lack of shut-off valves for each loop so one doesn't have to drain the entire system to change an element. Another being why are they using horizontal flow valves on a vertical system? Using the right valves would help prevent the sticking people experience. I'm  still trying to figure out how i can adapt a household 240v thermostat to the system because 450 bucks for a 40 dollar thermostat is ridiculous. For now it will be a 110 and diesel operation. 

Ill continue this thread as the parts arrive and get added into the system.

lHi gurus - we have taken possession of coach 646 and are loving the experience so far. This board has been both helpful and inspirational in our adventure from Phoenix to the east coast.

My question (actually the Boss' question) - how can we tell what material the floors and countertops are made from? It looks like marble floor, but it is? It looks like Corian countertops, but is it? Is this something we can contact Newell about or is there fairly standard floors and counters installed in every Newell, even though they are all custom?

We are trying to restore them to like new, but we need to know what we are working with.

Thanks very much in advance,

Dave and Tammy

I searched the term relay and read through 11 pages of post to see if this was covered. I could not find it. As a lot of you are aware the coach i bought had been broken into and as much of the wiring they could get their hands on had been stolen. I have completely rewired the underside of the coach and all systems work as far as i can tell. Only issue i found after rebuilding the underside power panel is I don't know what this relay and circuit breaker is for.  Marked in picture with white arrows.

I’m trying to find Info on coach number 639 (The coach I’m in the process of buying) If I enter 639 in the search bar I get a gazillion hits!  It seems like it’s hitting on any 6  3  or 9.  I tried using “639” and that does not work either??? Any help would be great!!! 
Thx Gregg

Has anyone tried to update their coach bay doors using linear actuators instead of the gas struts? I was thinking, if if replaced the struts with linear actuators and then drilled a hole for a push button open close, that would be pretty cool. 
push a button on the door you want to open and it opens. Push the button again and it closes. I could take the power from the power locks and run the actuators is what i was thinking.
Thoughts?

My front roller shade is giving me fits again and I’m running out of wire real estate on the motor end.  Figured I could use a tiny butt splice connector but everything I have is way too big as these wires on that motor are tiny.  Any suggestions on the best way to add some wire?

Working on the last air leak on the front of the coach and need some help identifying this part. It has a relief at the bottom leaking a slight amount of air.

dave and tammy have been here this week and we tinkered with a few things on his 03 they just bought.  this morning as they were getting ready to pull out of my shop we couldnt get the rear end to go to ride height.  it just wouldnt go up.  we tried manually raising it and nothing.  i tested the rear six pack solenoids and they were energized as they should have been.  

i was at the hwh control panel and dave was outside and he mentioned that he didnt think the tag had as much pressure on it as the drive.  AH HA....immediately i thought of the tag switch on the dash.  it had been bumped and the 3 way rocker switch was on and not in the middle.  so the tag was releasing air.  and nothing you can do will raise the rear up then.  we had alot of noise in the shop so didnt hear anything.  

moved the switch to the off center position and wallah.....the rear raised up

tom

While searching for air leaks I found that my 120V compressor is hot to the touch. I understand it may get warm if running frequently, but it runs about once every half hour and I have found the leaks and in the process of fixing them. The top of the manifold is just over 120 and the housing near the coils is over 200 consistently.

I do hear a humming prior to the pump coming on for a few seconds and an occasional humming and the compressor not coming on. I did order a new capacitor thinking maybe it may be the cause. For $12 its worth a shot.

Any one have any ideas or experience with this? These pumps are not cheap.

I called Newell last week and requested any info they had on my coach. To be honest i was hoping more for maintenance records. Here is what they sent me. I got the original build sheet and a floorplan blueprint that never ever made it to this coach. One of the change orders however changes the coach number from 436 to 435, so I'm guessing this blueprint is for the first Newell with slide outs. Its really the only way i can see having 6 twin beds in a coach.