[B Humberstone]

I'm going to change out my Drive and Tag axle air bags this winter. It looks like Newell has all 6 in stock and to my surprise there not too bad on the pricing. 

My first question is where the best place is to jack and crib the coach. Do you crib the drives and change out the tags then crip the tags to change out the drives or is there a spot that a set of jack stands can go that allows access to both the drive axle and tag axle. Any input would be helpful so as not to tubelock myself. 

Second question, Since the new drive axle bags only have a 1/4' feed port I know some have deleted the drive axle ping tanks. Thoughts on what is better, Tee the original 1/4" line that ran to the drive axle ping tank down to the new bags or run a completely new line from the six pack straight to the bags. Reasons for ether method? 

When doing ether of these methods, how do you feed the tag axle bags? Do you just tie in and feed the original line going to the solenoid valves then tag axle ping tank keeping that all stock or delete the Tage axle ping tank and solenoid valves by going straight from the sixpack to all three bags.   

Is it worth changing out the shocks at the same time as the air bags? 

thanks in advance for your advice

Bruce

[cwl1979]

I went with Continental bags with a 3/4 inlet. Then got 1inch to 3/4 reducer bushings. I jacked up the tag and changed the drives and vise versa as you thought about. Not sure what Newells price is or what bags are on you coach but you may take a look as there are cheaper options.

[Richard]

With a 1/4 inlet the ping tanks are useless. Running new 1/4 directly from the 6 pack relieves you of wrestling the ancient 1 inch hose.

Same with tag ping. Simply tee off the drive 1/4 and feed the tag.

Look forward of where radius rods of drive axle are attached. You will see a square pad on the bottom of t. Put your jack stands there.

On your coach you cannot use your approach of tags independent from drives because all three bags are tied together pneumatically. This prevents you crom jacking up one axle and emptying the air bag on the other.

Raise it high as possible and put jack stands under the pads. Take the tires off. It can be done with tires on but it takes five times as long.

[B Humberstone]

Richard 
X marks the spot to place the jack stand to support the entire rear of the coach  
   

Also what’s the best way to handle the solenoid valve Circuit shown in this drawing 
   

I have never used it maybe just delete and cap the supply line?

Thanks Bruce

[Richard]

Yes X marks the spot.

If you bypass the two two way solenoids you will lose the ability to add or subtract air from the tags. I would retain that if for no other reason than the next owner. Run the tee from the drive into the solenoid. Then run a 1/4 out of the second solenoid directly to the tag bag bypassing the ping tank

[B Humberstone]

Richard 
All sounds reasonable 

Thanks Bruce

[Richard]

Bruce,

You obviously have been reading other threads on the forum about replacement. Good on you for doing the research.

Let me restate one HUGE time and blood saving trick. Start with a sawzall and cut the fittings off the top of the drive bags. Since you are bypassing the pings cut the hose at the ping while you are at it. The existing fittings are in a hard to access location with little swing room for leverage even when you get a wrench on it. Sawzall is your best friend.

[rvguy]

I had to use a blow torch when doing all my bags. And as Richard started  by pass those ping tanks, they leak...  Its not a fun job, trust me !!

[cwl1979]

I used a half inch impact gun and an inch and a quarter socket and spun the fittings right out. Reinstalled a 1 inch to 3/4 reducing bushing then new air lines right to the bags.