[jdkskyking]

There is a wealth of information available on Newell Gurus for the BODE Door. As I research the problem with my door I will compile what I find and post in this thread.
JK 

bode air door.pdf Size: 331.13 KB  Downloads: 25

BODE Door MAC-Cylinder Adjustments v1.pdf Size: 276.67 KB  Downloads: 12

Bode’ pneumatic plug door manual.pdf Size: 890.86 KB  Downloads: 18

Bode door & lock circuit for mid entry.pdf Size: 614.47 KB  Downloads: 23

BODE DOOR - knorr_bremse_valve_info.pdf Size: 2.26 KB  Downloads: 13

BODE Door Adjustment Manual .pdf Size: 1.88 MB  Downloads: 20

[jdkskyking]

Grease fitting above the cylinder on upper shaft. 

I’d like to swap it out with a 90°… 

   


Here’s the 90°
   

[jdkskyking]

I’ve finally acquired new parts for the BODE Plug Door/Mid-Entry.

My original problem: pushed the exterior door button to close the door and had no door movement, could hear air rushing from behind a trim covering the BODE shaft. 

It appeared the air was coming from the MAC Valve Exhaust port/muffler. 

After researching the system and a quick discussion with Newell, I contacted BODE and ordered a cylinder rebuild kit, new MAC Valves, and new Canfield Connectors. Most parts were in stock.
All exact replacements for the installed components I was replacing. 

While I was removing components, studying the system, I decided to upgrade some wiring and air tubing (5/16” or 8mm). 
I also added a screw terminal block for the Canfield controller wiring harness.

I plumbed in a new MAC Valve. Because of the space and location I chose for the MAC Valve, I made a three wire harness to connect the Canfield controller to the MAC Valve solenoid. 

It was finally show time. I recommend being clear on the door when the air is restored. 
Air On - Door closed rapidly. Push the door open button… nothing. 

Time to review my work. 

Conclusion - No power from the “new” Canfield Connector to the MAC Valve solenoid. No matter what I tried, every time I turned on the air, the door shut. 

Drug out the old Canfield Connector and hooked it up. Worked Great!!

Time to verify part numbers. 

From my research, the Canfield is a DIN Solenoid Timer Connector. 
A timed power connector that can be adjusted from .5 seconds to 25 seconds. 
This launched me off into a rabbit hole for a while until I finally determined that the MAC Valve and solenoid is very simple. It just needs 12 volts to open the door/direct air to the top connector of the BODE cylinder. Close the door, de-energize the solenoid and air is redirected to the cylinder bottom port. 

The door closes and raises to lock it in place for travel. It needs constant air pressure to remain closed and locked. 

12v Power failure… better know how to release the air from the door to get out. 

Here’s where I need the expertise of the Gurus. 

Apparently my new Canfield Connector doesn’t play well with the 2005 era system??

With the original (to me) Canfield in place, I can disconnect the Orange and Green “trigger” wires and the MAC Valve still works. 

Is it that simple? 

The Blue wire is necessary to keep the door from opening if the bay door behind the entry door is open. I’m assuming the “trigger” wires and associated micro switches on the door spindle (one vertical and two horizontal) are for other systems associated with the door controls ie: retractable steps, door lock, alarm, entry code pad??

I’m having the electrics schematic printed in a larger format to help me trace wires to the many components. 

BTW… Power to the BODE door system is supplied from the SPYDER DC FUSE MODULE. 10 amp fuse if memory serves.

If you can shed any light on this topic I’d appreciate it. I want my door bulletproof.


Thanks, JK 


BTW-I am going to cut a 2x4 to go across the stairwell and keep a ratchet strap in the bays to pull the door arm up and keep the door locked for travel if something ever goes wrong with the door air system.

[jdkskyking]

BODE DOOR PHOTO GALLERY 

Original Configuration 
       

Canfield Connector 
               

MAC Valve 
                       

BODE Micro Switches 
                       

Bottom horizontal microswitch is for the step and stairwell light.

[hypoxia]

I don't see a Canfield Connector in the wiring diagram, what replaced it or is there another diagram?

The door works properly with the original Canfield Connector?

Have you called Canfield Connector? I don't see that part number in their catalog.

[jdkskyking]

I don't see a Canfield Connector in the wiring diagram, what replaced it or is there another diagram? 

The door works properly with the original Canfield Connector?

Have you called Canfield Connector?  I don't see that part number in their catalog.

I plan on calling them to ask a few “technical” questions. 

Do you have a picture of your air valve and electrical components?

As we hear often, no two Newells are the same. Has mine been modified? 

Time to call the builder? I’d imagine I can get an update or upgrade. 

Like I say, this system needs to be as bulletproof as proof as we can make it.

[jdkskyking]

I spoke to Newell.

Yes, older era Newells used the Canfield Connector/MAC Valve combo.

Yes the NEW Canfield Connector doesn’t not function like the original devices even though they share the same part number.

The BLUE WIRE (bay door open lockout) provides a Ground. The ground tells the Canfield the bay door is shut and to energize the MAC solenoid.
I could have been seeing solenoid voltage back-feeding through the blue wire when the door was open and solenoid energized.

The “TIMER” function serves as a safety mechanism:
If the door does not rotate to the closed position and complete the raise/lock sequence within the preset timeframe, the Canfield timer will expire due to a lack of confirmation from the horizontal and/or vertical microswitches. Upon timeout, the system interprets this as an incomplete or obstructed close cycle and will automatically reverse operation, causing the door to reopen.

1) One of the horizontal micros switch is used to confirm the door rotated to the closed position (micro switch with the Orange wire).

2) The vertical micro switch indicates when the door has raised into the frame locks (Green wire).

The second horizontal micro-switch is used for the stairwell light and retractable steps (completes the circuit ground?).

There are updated door control electronics/relays available.

[hypoxia]

Wow. Are you going to use the old Canfield or?

[jdkskyking]

               

               

Verified - 2005 era Newell used a dc ground provided by the aft bay door mercury switch circuit (BLUE WIRE) to trigger Canfield Connector to energize the MAC Valve solenoid and open the door. 

Verified - New Canfield Connector requires a +12v dc trigger input via the aft bay door mercury switch (Blue Wire) to energize the MAC Valve solenoid to open the door. 

In order to utilize the new Canfield Connector I installed a 12v dc relay to provide the needed +12v dc trigger. I used the aft bay door mercury switch circuit to provide the relay ground. 

Note-I’m not a relay expert, here’s how I made the system function:

The relay requires its own 12v dc power supply to terminal 30.
I connected the relay terminal 87 to the Canfield Connector Blue Trigger wire. 
I connected 12v dc to the relay terminal 86.
I connected Newell aft bay door mercury switch circuit to relay terminal 85. 

Other Modifications:
I relocated the KNORR-BREMSE air regulator/backflow preventer to the aft bay. 
       

I ran a new MAC Valve Exhaust Port air line from the BODE Door cylinder area to the bay area behind entry steps. Now there is no air hissing when the door is actuated. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/kohSFoXH3hQ?feature=shared

That’s all I’ve got for tonight on the BODE Door project.

ICYMI
I’m getting closer to installing the new hydraulic pump that will supply my cooling fan motor. Here’s the new hydraulic tank and a few of the future controls.
       

Cheers,
JK

[CaptainGizmo]

You do GOOD WORK, Jeff!

If you're ever tempted to retire, I have a job for you! ;-)