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Jun air compressor
#1

We've gotten our compressor to come on while living in the coach about every couple hours but its very noisy and I have to turn it off at night so not to upset the neighbors so I purchased a Jun air and going to plumb it in but the old Thompson compressor is located on the generator and the controls are in the well directly  under passenger seat, it will not fit in either space so it will have to be replumbed to a different bay. The compressor has its own adjustable pressure switch and a small tank which is attached and I would like to stay with the compressor and then plumb back into the tank in the compartment under the passenger seat with the blow off safety valve is located. All the electrical feeding the old pressure switch has been butchered over the years there is a new 120v power which has been installed to make the system function which I am not proud of so its all going away. The 120V switch above the microwave has never worked so there must have been an issue at one time and whomever without knowledge of electrical decided to string a electric cord over the passenger side suspension into that area. There is also a 12v relay in that area which feeds a contactor which is worthless as they have had water from the compressor tank drained on them for years, after reading a few threads I believe this to do with the HWH auto level system which could turn on the compressor when needed. Its going away, I don't want to have some system turning on the compressor while I'm out and about. 
Have any of you done the compressor relocation and if so where do you recommend?

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#2

I mounted mine in the bay with the generator blower. To do that, I had to separate the compressor and tank from the frame where they were mounted as an assembly. I will send some pics when it becomes light out.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#3

The original wiring to the front compressor is dead, the main breaker is located just below the refrigerator in the bay below, it feeds the AC outlets in the front and the TV. The compressor is also fed off of that circuit. I would think they would Branch off one of the plugs in the front and go directly down into the bay below the passenger seat with power. Does anybody have any experience with this particular circuit? I don't mind tracing things down but if somebody's already been there and done that would save me some time. They're evidently has been a problem in the past that's why it is disconnected and a new wire run in the wheel well passenger side. I would like to correct this.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#4

Our rigs are close in serial number, so we may have the same setup. The 110 line to the air comp originates at the inverter breaker box as you stated. The purpose being to provide air pressure while boondocking. That line goes to the Square D well pump switch used to turn the compressor on and off. I would assume you still have the well pump switch in the generator blower bay? And as you stated the other grey contactor box was triggered by the HWH control system to turn the pump when auto leveling was active.

My wiring was in the bundle of wires secured at the blower. A line from the well pump switch went back through the opening in the back of the gen blower bay to power the air comp in the gen bay.

Long way of saying……look at both the well pump switch and the HWH bypass contactor for the missing line. If not there, look carefully at the bundle of wires at the blower.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#5

I deleted the last post because I tried to read and respond to Richards post on my phone. Phones are great for younger people and a challenge to read for some of us older people.

Richard I have the exact set up as you described in your post, I do have the wire which should be hot going down the side of the blower for the Generator but its dead. I was wondering where its connection point to the front plugs and tv are, its not Romex but a heavy duty multi strand cord. 

I have eliminated many air leaks, most just due to age, decay and lack of maintenance, found leaks on drain valves on tanks, air dryer, leaks on fittings, solenoid valves for dump valves and toilet controls even regulators for the slide seal. Soon all that will be used for pneumatics is doors, airbags and slide seals. New macerator toilet showed up yesterday, I will change out the dump valves to 12v electric down the road but really don't mind opening by hand.

I am just amazed at the Jun air compressor, I actually thought there was a problem with it because when I turned it on it seemed not to be working but it was running. Soon as its installed my air system will be perfect!


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1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
Reply
#6

Hmmmmmmm.

I do not know this for a fact is the crossover point from the Romex which leaves the inverter powered breaker to the multistrand cord, but it’s the first place I would look. In the upper passenger side corner of the generator box is a electrical junction box. That is a logical place for it.

Now here is the problem, it’s almost impossible to access without pulling the generator out. If you want to pull out the generator, you are welcome to borrow my lift table. It works like a dream for that.

Depending upon your physical configuration (how about that for politically correctness), you may be able to pull the generator blower which is easy, and then poke your head through the hole and access that box.

BTW, on another note, if the generator latch ever fails or the cable breaks, pulling the generator blower is how you access the latch to get the compartment open.

And just to keep you busy, search around and find the posts on replacing the blower with an direct drive unit. Way quieter!!!!!!

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#7

More good info. I'm coach bound today it raining here, if the rest of the shower door parts show up at least be able to fix something. Thank you for your generous offer on the lift but I might be limber enough to get my head through there.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
Reply
#8

Finished product, I can't say enough about this little compressor, its so quite I have to put my hand on it to see if its running but that being said my hearing sucks. It doesn't have the same cfm as the old compressor but thats not an issue now we have our air leaks fixed. I can't tell you the time cycle it comes on because you can't hear it but before on the old compressor and still having the air toilet it was every 3-4 hours now I doubt its once a day. I don't leave the coach in auto level and the front six pack has new poppets so nothing is leaking by I would gamble and say once a day but even twice a day was a dramatic improvement from once every 15 minutes when we bought the coach.

I have one question, where is the air hose hook up on our coaches? The hook up where you could air up your tires.


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1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#9

What model is your Junair? At some point I would like to replace one of the Thompson compressors.

Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
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#10

Rear passenger engine bay. You may or may not have a “doubler”. A handy device made by SMC to double the air pressure. Very handy for inflating to 120 or above.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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