[Gem930]

My passenger side waste tank dump has a small leak on the bottom of the fitting where it connects to the tank.  I called Newell and they said this bulk head fitting is spun welded and they remove the tank to make these kind of repairs.  While I’m not opposed to that, if it ultimately becomes necessary, I’d like to try some kind of two part epoxy fix, first.  The leak is very small and only drips when there is over a 1/2 tank of head pressure. The leak is definitely on the bottom of the fitting.  The entire fitting is dry, except on the bottom.  Has anybody had any kind of luck with any specific type of epoxy or putty?
Thx! 

Gregg
530-228-5399

[hypoxia]

Others will chime in with more experience hopefully.  Newell should be able to tell you what type of plastic it is.  There are plastic epoxy's that may work.  If it is in an area that you can wrap "Rescue Tape" around it, that worked for me on a fresh water tank for a few years.  In the past, I repaired a black water tank with the putty epoxy sticks you knead, then apply.

[arcticdude]

Many of the tanks are polypropylene and normal glues or adhesives won’t stick. Loctite makes a glue for “hard to glue plastics” that will work.

I had a fresh water tank that had a spun welded fitting start to come loose. Once I pulled the tank I found almost all of the fitting was loose. I pulled it the rest of the way off and reglued it with the loctite glue. No more leak.

Here’s a link:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-...157&sr=8-8

You don’t need much volume to glue the fitting.

[Gem930]

Thx!!!! I’ll order some!!!

[Jack Houpe]

My vote 3m 5200 quick cure, quick cure only takes 24 hours to set up also it works better when used in wet climates.

[arcticdude]

I’d call Newell asking what material your tanks are made of just to ensure you get the right adhesive. The polypropylene is kind of “greasy”, so it can be miserable unlike other plastics.

[Gem930]

I’ll call Newell and report back!

[Gem930]

I dug a little deeper today and discovered the break was actually along the bottom of the abs pipe, not the spin weld. Not much force and the entire 3' pipe broke completely off. There is enough of a lip to use abs cement and get a seal, but likely not enough that it will withstand the vibration that broke it in the first place. I found a 3' abs to flange that I ordered. I hope I can use abs cement on the inside to bond the abs to abs on the small lip and the locktite glue to bond the flange to the tank wall. I am even considering coating some stainless screws with the glue and screwing the flange into the tank wall (the flange has 4 screw holes). Ill wait to see how the lip mates with the round hole on the flanged fitting. Wish me luck!

[johnkosir]

Did you see the post where someone used a reamer to cut out the old pipe and put in a new one, I have used a hack saw blade to cut  a pipe out of a fitting, I carefully cut the pipe down the the fitting the use a heat gun to warm it up and twist the pipe beside where I cut it and get the pipe out uf the fitting, then I use a lot of glue when I put the new piece in

[Gem930]

Thx for the reply. I actually have a pipe repair reamer that would fit in the 3” hole and initially I thought it would work, however after checking dimensions it looks like Newell spun welded the abs pipe into the tank (not a fitting) so if I use my 3” pipe reamer I would cut all the abs out of the tank. Since I don’t know how they “ spin weld” it, I like to keep some abs in there that I can glue to.