[Richard]

I really wondered about how my coach was setup to avoid the voltage loss through the isolator diode. I knew it did not have the same adjustable regulator. Today, I went to the engine bay to noodle on this, and I found the Oklahoma farm boy solution. Newell easily worked around this by hotwiring the in terminal on the isolator to the chassis side. Makes sense after all, you want the chassis batts charging anytime the alternator is turning

   

Another owner of a very similar vintage coach has sent me a photo, and his coach does not have the jumper. Mine is obviously factory. The jumper may render the isolator useless. I don’t know enough about how the isolator really works in terms of what are the minimal differential voltages for it to transmit current, and what the trigger wire from the alternator actually does. I have read the NOCO instructions many times and it is still not clear to me. My isolator doesn’t work with the Lithium house batts anyhoo, so I never really worked on it, or worried about it.