[jdkskyking]

I’ve finally acquired new parts for the BODE Plug Door/Mid-Entry.

My original problem: pushed the exterior door button to close the door and had no door movement, could hear air rushing from behind a trim covering the BODE shaft. 

It appeared the air was coming from the MAC Valve Exhaust port/muffler. 

After researching the system and a quick discussion with Newell, I contacted BODE and ordered a cylinder rebuild kit, new MAC Valves, and new Canfield Connectors. Most parts were in stock.
All exact replacements for the installed components I was replacing. 

While I was removing components, studying the system, I decided to upgrade some wiring and air tubing (5/16” or 8mm). 
I also added a screw terminal block for the Canfield controller wiring harness.

I plumbed in a new MAC Valve. Because of the space and location I chose for the MAC Valve, I made a three wire harness to connect the Canfield controller to the MAC Valve solenoid. 

It was finally show time. I recommend being clear on the door when the air is restored. 
Air On - Door closed rapidly. Push the door open button… nothing. 

Time to review my work. 

Conclusion - No power from the “new” Canfield Connector to the MAC Valve solenoid. No matter what I tried, every time I turned on the air, the door shut. 

Drug out the old Canfield Connector and hooked it up. Worked Great!!

Time to verify part numbers. 

From my research, the Canfield is a DIN Solenoid Timer Connector. 
A timed power connector that can be adjusted from .5 seconds to 25 seconds. 
This launched me off into a rabbit hole for a while until I finally determined that the MAC Valve and solenoid is very simple. It just needs 12 volts to open the door/direct air to the top connector of the BODE cylinder. Close the door, de-energize the solenoid and air is redirected to the cylinder bottom port. 

The door closes and raises to lock it in place for travel. It needs constant air pressure to remain closed and locked. 

12v Power failure… better know how to release the air from the door to get out. 

Here’s where I need the expertise of the Gurus. 

Apparently my new Canfield Connector doesn’t play well with the 2005 era system??

With the original (to me) Canfield in place, I can disconnect the Orange and Green “trigger” wires and the MAC Valve still works. 

Is it that simple? 

The Blue wire is necessary to keep the door from opening if the bay door behind the entry door is open. I’m assuming the “trigger” wires and associated micro switches on the door spindle (one vertical and two horizontal) are for other systems associated with the door controls ie: retractable steps, door lock, alarm, entry code pad??

I’m having the electrics schematic printed in a larger format to help me trace wires to the many components. 

BTW… Power to the BODE door system is supplied from the SPYDER DC FUSE MODULE. 10 amp fuse if memory serves.

If you can shed any light on this topic I’d appreciate it. I want my door bulletproof.


Thanks, JK 


BTW-I am going to cut a 2x4 to go across the stairwell and keep a ratchet strap in the bays to pull the door arm up and keep the door locked for travel if something ever goes wrong with the door air system.