[Richard]

So……..

It is highly unlikely you have the rubber damper, aka rag joint, because it came into being after our coaches were built.

On the bottom of the steering column, loosen the bolt and remove it. There is a cutout in the steering shaft that the bolt goes through as a safety precaution. Now for the fun part, the very same setup is on the steering gear box. The bolt HAS to be removed for the coupling to release the shaft on the steering gear box. The intermediate shaft will come out the bottom, or the top, your choice.

Go back and read my post about installing the heavy duty bearing in the bottom of the GM column. It’s a heck of a lot quicker and cheaper than a new column.

Don’t go crazy with the steering sector adjustment screw on the TRW steering gear box. It is easy to think that taking the slop out of the box will help. I can assure you that having that screw too tight results in an EVIL handling beast.

I am OCD about how the coach handles. Here is MY list, not necessarily anyone’s opinion but mine, on all the stuff I did in order of highest impact.

Great Improvement
Replace bearing in bottom of steering gear column.
Tightened loose coupling on u joint to steering gear column.
Replace Panhard bar on rear axle

Modest improvement
Fine tuned toe in based on driving feel (I settled on 1/32 of rolling toe)
Rear axle torque arm bushings
New tie rod ends
New pitman arm ends
Custom fit heavy duty bearing in upper tilt section of GM column

Well I thought this would help but it really didn’t if I’m honest.
Rebuilt steering gearbox.
Tightened center tie rod links with internal adjustment
Road King shocks

And this hurt more than it helped
About 10 alignment jobs including Josam’s in Orlando.

I hope this helps you with your handling quest.