[Dey1435]

Rear curb slide will extend about halfway and then throws error message (room motor over current) and hard stops.  How do I tell if it’s an obstruction or a bearing that is causing the issue?

[hypoxia]

Coach 1435?  Call Newell, they are closed until Monday but have 7/24 diagnostic service.  You can get into the Valid service menu but there are too many things that can cause self inflicted problems to go it on your own.

[Dey1435]

Sorry, yes Coach 1435

[hypoxia]

Newell (918) 542-3344

[CaptainGizmo]

Ironically, I've been fighting our P/S Rear slide for over a year. I've gone through Manual Control so many times that I now have it in my memory!!

Resisting the suggestion of replacing the motors....at $1800 ea....I continued to do the manual procedure with the hope that SOMETHING would reveal itself.

WEEEEELLLLLl....I think I can now be confident to say I've found the problem, even though some have said "probably not". THE PROBLEM WAS OUR NEW COMFORTER!!!!! It was SOOOO BULKY that, when draped and tucked around the end of the bed, it put undue pressure on that slide as it retracted!! And since I am religious with my Extend (1,2,3,4) and Retract (4,3,2,1) sequence, THAT SLIDE always comes in AFTER the D/S rear slide. (don't correct me on the stupid slide numbering thing...I hate it and NEVER get it right!!).

So, that may be YOUR cause. Now, what to do about getting your SLIDE count reset so it'll work hopefully? Here are the procedures to not only clear the error, but get the slide into alignment, and then set the Endwall Limits. These are direct from Tracy and has been vetted and re-used by myself as well as other techs.

Overrun Encoder error; can be done if slide is still extended and aligned
1. Service menu
2. CODE: 6477
3. Manual Control
4. Select Room
5. Press Vac to below 5psi
6. Endwall Control
7. No Sync Retract (Be sure fully extended and floor is down)

Set Endwall Limits; this is the usual procedure to do after an endwall/encoder fault
1. Service Menu
2. 6477
3. Manual
4. Select Room
5. Tap Vac
6. Tap Vent until below 5psi
7. Tap Endwall Control
8. No Sync Extend until Over Current error (Current should be ~8A)
9. Clear Fault
10. Change Select EW A
11. NO SYNC EXTEND HOLD until FAULT (Current should be ~8A)
12. Clear FAULT
13. Change Select EW B
14. NO SYNC EXTEND HOLD until FAULT (Current should be ~8A)
15. Clear FAULT
16. Select All
17. SET EQUAL
18. YES
19. 14500 should be on both values
20. Back
21. SYNC RETRACT HOLD until stops 0.0A (Current should be ~8A)
22. Tap INFlate
23. Hit Back to get out to OFF
24. RUN SLIDE IN AND OUT IN NORMAL/AUTO TO SAVE SETTINGS!

[RobSC]

Nice write-up above by Steve.  Those instructions will come in handy for anyone with Valid slides.

I'm leaning more toward a failed bearing might be your problem.  I had the same issues with my slide hanging up in a certain spot and triggering the over current fault.  The slide rides on a linear bearing assembly.  If this bearing is exposed to any amount of water, the balls will rust.  The balls roll on a loop like track.  When the rusted part reaches a turn in the loop, the resistance is too much and will overload the motor.

I've replaced both a motor and bearing in one of my slides.  The motor replacement is the easier of the two.  For the bearing replacement, you will need some type of lift or support system for the slide as it must be extended to remove the bearing.  It's doable if you have a shop, the right tools, and a helper.  If that's not available, then let Newell handle it.

[hypoxia]

I think the first time someone enters the service diagnostic it is smart to be on the phone with a Newell tech.  Since the air is not turned off, the slide seal can inflate without you realizing it.  If that happens and you move the slide it can take the seal with it, a very unhappy moment.

Slide extension:  The 2 Stub Wall Bearings (top & bottom) extend to the wall (~18” on a 30" slide) and then the End Wall bearing (middle) takes over for the remaining extension.  You can watch the bearings extend on the rails to confirm which bearing is bad.  If it does not extend on the rail, it is bad.  All 3 bearings at each end of the slide are the same part number.  Grease the bearing and spray PB Blaster penetrating fluid onto the rail.  You can try pushing against the slide to break the bearing loose or you can use a pry bar to force the bearing; block of wood on the aluminum opening, pry against the Allen head screws.  To move the slide outward, place the crowbar on the bolt head and using wood, pry against the outermost edge of the opening to move the bearing rail inward towards the coach.

The trick is being able to remove the outside access cover.

VSS90M-002-SM-Manual 1482 Coach.pdf Size: 20.76 MB  Downloads: 4

                   

[encantotom]

that is an amazing writeup. thanks,

i have done a number of hwh hydraulic slide seals where you have to support the slide to pull it out enough to do the seal. i have a custom made adjustable self leveling slide cart to do that. it was cheaper for me to make the cart and buy the seal than to drive to newell...ha

reason i am saying this is if you have a valid issue and you are a do it yourselfer you are welcome to come to my place to support the slide if that is what is needed.

i am not a work for hire shop, just a friend who will let you use my stuff and visit. i have 2 full hookup spots next to my backyard shop and 50a inside as well where the work would be done. my shop holds 2 4 slide coaches inside.

btw, the plunger replacements i have work for the valid six packs on the leveling system.

i know you dont need the cart on a valid to do the seal like you do on an older newell.

tom

[RobSC]

Attached are the bad and new bearings from my replacement.  Plenty of grease in the bad one, but the water intrusion resulted in corrosion that caused the failure.

[arcticdude]

Those linear bearings are used on several slide mechanisms out there.  My bird has them on its slides.  I just had one replaced earlier this year.  After seeing it, I will do the next several at home.

They're not really that bad of a job to do, if you have the right tools.  A swivel allen socket along with a traditional allen socket can make the job easier.

Supporting the slide is the key to easy replacement.  Coach Craft just used a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift the end of the slide.

Water intrusion kills these bearings.  Frequent greasing is important to ensure they stay healthy.  Once the ball bearings start to drag, the plastic cage gets torn up and everything slowly comes apart.  You'll find loose ball bearings occasionally as the bearing self-destructs.

www.thkstore.com has a good site where you might find an exact replacement for the one's Newell uses. www.motion.com is another good source for these.