[bikestuff]

Gang,

I have been away from the coach for a few weeks.  Now that I am back a new problem has crept up.  My toilet is losing water in the bowl.  It operates properly other than losing water.  Today, I realized that the water that is being lost is leaking into the basement.

So...here are a few questions...

1)  I assume that the problem is somewhere associated with the hopper.  Is that a correct guess?
2)  The flapper seems to be in good shape, but the flapper *has* to have a problem or the water would not be able to get out of bowl...right?
3)  Has anyone removed their microphor?  Can you give me a general instruction about what to disconnect prior to removing the toilet.
4)  Is there anything that I can fix once I get the toilet up or do I need some sort of repair / rebuild kit?

I think that the consensus is that microphor toilets are pretty good performers.  Should I consider replacing it with anything else?  

Cheers,
bill

[HoosierDaddy]

Bill,
I just finished rebuilding my Microphor. Its probably leaking between the bowl and the hopper. The rebuild isn't hard to do but you must remove the toilet to do it. They have a parts distribution center in New Hampshire I believe. Look for the model number under the back cover of your toilet. The phone number for parts is(707) 459-5563. The lady I talked to was very pleasant ( tell her Dean from Indiana gave you her number!  ), and knowledgeable and the parts aren't expensive. There is a special silicone sealer that they recommend for the hopper/bowl connection. It is great but takes several days to cure. They also recommend a good old wax ring be seated in that area as well.

[encantotom]

bill, i have had both of my toilets out.

they are both mounted differently from each other.

the mid bath toilet is a downward pipe mount. it had a piece of abs balck pipe cememted on it that was 6 0r 8" long so it would go through to the bay where it was mated by a rubber union. so on mine, i had to take that rubber union off, unbolt the toilet and pull it straight up quite a ways for the black pipe to clear the floor. and it had to be set on its side then.

the rear bath toile is a horizontal discharge. just undo the stainless/rubber union with a screwdriver or nutdriver, unbolt the toilet and take it off the floor

of course, disconnect the water and air on both of them.

make sure the lag bolts have not stripped out the holes in the floor. easily repaired by using plastaid if they are.

tom

[Richard]

if the bowl is leaking the hopper could overfill. I would fix the flapper first. New seal and scrub the opening with a scotch brite. hard water leaves residue on the sealing surface.

[Richard]

Bill,

Take a close look at the white spool valve and air gap valve just under the toilet lid. They seal with o rings and also the connection is aligned via two wing nuts that are not immediately visible. If the valve leaks, it will run under the toilet and through the hole in the floor. I know this from experience.

[bikestuff]

I have a new flapper, but have not installed yet. Would the spool valve and gap valve let the water out of the bowl?

thanks!

[Richard]

No, water out of the bowl is flapper seal.

Water leaking into basement could be hopper leak or valve assembly leak.

[DogKnots]

I had a similar problem in #510…kept smelling the sewage on our way home from the the keys over Memorial Day. I discovered a chunk of toilet paper stuck between the flapper and bowl which was an easy fix.
Now I've got a leak inside the "tank" which leaks water whenever the toilet is flushed. The part associated with the leak is called the "spud assembly" marked as letter Q on the microphor schematic (page 8; http://edmullaney.com/Manuals/Manual-245...OILETS.pdf)
I'm not sure if this link is the same as what you all have saved on the site.
Has anybody else had a similar problem / worked through those parts?

[Richard]

Yes, on the leaks on the spud assembly.

I can't tell you which O rings, but I took the whole thing apart including the sliding pieces inside the spool valve and sourced o rings at lowes to replace every O ring. Lubed them with plumbers silicone grease and reassembled.

The two tricks are tightening the two valves to the white plastic plate with the plastic knobs on top, and tightening the two wing nuts that secure the plate to the back of the tank.

I put the assembly in place and barely snugged the knobs, so that the valves would be held onto the plate. I then tightened the wing
nuts to secure the plate. I gently moved the assemble as far forward towards the toilet seat as possible and then tightened the knobs.

If I did the sequence in reverse and tightened the assembly to the plate, and then the plate to the toilet. I would pull the assembly away from the toilet and it would leak.

[DogKnots]

Where / how to you turn the air to the toilet off or is it not necessary?
The only solution I have come up with is to turn off the compressors and just let the air tank drain down until it stops. Is there a better way?
I was planning to shut the water off at the manifold in the wet bay.
Thanks for all the help / advice!